Steve's Arete 5.11a
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Mark Egan looks for his next move.
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Description An outstanding overhanging arete. Really positive holds and some great crimps as you get towards the top. Beware of the pump factor, and don't fear the height of the first bolt. It's on the cover of the Rock Climbing Arizona book. Great photo ops.
Protection 4 bolts to chain anchors, quickdraws only.
Ooops, I got pumped! I was trying to clip the las...
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Andrew, glad to be top roped.
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Caleb Bechman setting the record for the coldest a...
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Jay Tanzman on Steve's Arete. Photo: Hillary Davi...
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Steve's Arete w/Moon.
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Fighting the pump
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This things a classic!
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A different look at Steve's Arete. Jan 09.
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Sophie working hard for the redpoint on Steve's Ar...
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Sophie at the crux wondering where the jugs went.....
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Rob on Steve's Arete (5.11-)
A very photogenic pl...
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Photographer: Grant Stoltz
Climber: Daniel Driscol...
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Clipping
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Warming up for New Wave Wall
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gehrig on the arete
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BETA PHOTO: Steve's Arete
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| Comments on Steve's Arete |
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By Nick Kuhn
Feb 23, 2004
| The first bolt is a bit of a stretch on challenging rock. Unless you're very comfortable at the grade, you may consider traversing in from the right to clip the bolt first. Then give the direct start a go. |
By eMurdock
From: Tucson, Arizona
May 22, 2004
| First ascent by Steve Grossman. The first bolt is gained by climbing on the ledge and traversing left. It should be easy to clip for anyone. The direct start (down and left) was bolted about a year ago by Rhicard. It adds some 10+ moves to the climb. Bolts were replaced with more modern equipment within the last two years. |
By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.11a
| Location, location, location. Great moves too on this area classic. |
By jbak
Jan 17, 2007
| Hard to give a 20 foot route more than 2 stars... |
By Joseph Stover
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Dec 4, 2007
rating: 5.11a
| This route is only popular cause it is popular! Well it's photogenic too. It's worth climbing and projecting, but is not worth it's reputation as a 4 star classic. I think the face start at the bottom is my favorite part!
It is also misleading when people use this route as the "standard" 11a. This route only requires sustain and strength. Many other 11a/10d's on Mt Lemmon require much more technique and not so much endurance. This route took me more tries than any other 11a, and several 11b's! |
By lamina
Dec 7, 2007
| thanks for listing the baker's dozen top sport 11s :)
These routes are great(for grandma)to learn a wide variety of style, skills and techniques. |
By jbak
Dec 7, 2007
| You got it !
You not only half long...you half smart.
Chunky Monkey is on the Sunny Side. |
By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 5, 2008
| Have to agree with Jbak two stars. That is what SQ II says so it must be true! You can add 15 feet by doing the direct start but it doesn't add any stars. Still a fun route. |
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
May 20, 2008
rating: 5.11a
| classic 25 feet |
By Colin Brochard
From: San Francisco
Dec 25, 2010
rating: 5.11a
| some haters of this route on this forum, a picture of this route is what got me to come out to Arizona on a little roadtrip last year and while this route was short it was certainly classic. About as exposed as you can get in 35 feet of climbing. Overhanging aretes are boss |
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