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Steve's Arete 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Steve Grossman
Page Views: 10,741
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Mar 9, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (103)
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Mark Egan looks for his next move.

Description 

An outstanding overhanging arete. Really positive holds and some great crimps as you get towards the top. Beware of the pump factor, and don't fear the height of the first bolt. It's on the cover of the Rock Climbing Arizona book. Great photo ops.

Protection 

4 bolts to chain anchors, quickdraws only.


Photos of Steve's Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rob on Steve's Arete (5.11-)  A very photogenic pl...
Rob on Steve's Arete (5.11-) A very photogenic pl...
Caleb Bechman setting the record for the coldest a...
Caleb Bechman setting the record for the coldest a...
Andrew, glad to be top roped.
Andrew, glad to be top roped.
Sophie at the crux wondering where the jugs went.....
Sophie at the crux wondering where the jugs went.....
Fighting the pump
Fighting the pump
Photographer: Grant Stoltz Climber: Daniel Driscol...
Photographer: Grant Stoltz Climber: Daniel Driscol...
Clipping
Clipping
Warming up for New Wave Wall
Warming up for New Wave Wall
gehrig on the arete
gehrig on the arete
Aerial View
Aerial View
Independence Day on Mt. Lemmon. Also, my first 5.1...
Independence Day on Mt. Lemmon. Also, my first 5.1...
Steve's Arete
Steve's Arete
Jay Tanzman on Steve's Arete.  Photo: Hillary Davi...
Jay Tanzman on Steve's Arete. Photo: Hillary Davi...
Ooops, I got pumped!  I was trying to clip the las...
Ooops, I got pumped! I was trying to clip the las...
Steve's Arete w/Moon.
Steve's Arete w/Moon.
Steve's Arete
BETA PHOTO: Steve's Arete
This things a classic!
This things a classic!
flashing steve's on tr
flashing steve's on tr
Sophie working hard for the redpoint on Steve's Ar...
Sophie working hard for the redpoint on Steve's Ar...
A different look at Steve's Arete. Jan 09.
A different look at Steve's Arete. Jan 09.

Comments on Steve's Arete Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 7, 2014
By Nick Kuhn
Feb 23, 2004

The first bolt is a bit of a stretch on challenging rock. Unless you're very comfortable at the grade, you may consider traversing in from the right to clip the bolt first. Then give the direct start a go.
By eMurdock
From: Tucson, Arizona
May 22, 2004

First ascent by Steve Grossman. The first bolt is gained by climbing on the ledge and traversing left. It should be easy to clip for anyone. The direct start (down and left) was bolted about a year ago by Rhicard. It adds some 10+ moves to the climb. Bolts were replaced with more modern equipment within the last two years.
By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Location, location, location. Great moves too on this area classic.
By jbak
Jan 17, 2007

Hard to give a 20 foot route more than 2 stars...
By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Dec 4, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This route is only popular cause it is popular! Well it's photogenic too. It's worth climbing and projecting, but is not worth it's reputation as a 4 star classic. I think the face start at the bottom is my favorite part!

It is also misleading when people use this route as the "standard" 11a. This route only requires sustain and strength. Many other 11a/10d's on Mt Lemmon require much more technique and not so much endurance. This route took me more tries than any other 11a, and several 11b's!
By lamina
Dec 7, 2007

thanks for listing the baker's dozen top sport 11s :)
These routes are great(for grandma)to learn a wide variety of style, skills and techniques.
By jbak
Dec 7, 2007

You got it !

You not only half long...you half smart.

Chunky Monkey is on the Sunny Side.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 5, 2008

Have to agree with Jbak two stars. That is what SQ II says so it must be true! You can add 15 feet by doing the direct start but it doesn't add any stars. Still a fun route.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
May 20, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

classic 25 feet
By Colin Brochard
From: San Francisco
Dec 25, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

some haters of this route on this forum, a picture of this route is what got me to come out to Arizona on a little roadtrip last year and while this route was short it was certainly classic. About as exposed as you can get in 35 feet of climbing. Overhanging aretes are boss
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 5, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

this is a 4-star route and here's why:
1. the climbing is classic. while short, the movement is amazing.
2. the route is as aesthetic as it gets. a perfect arching arete coupled with incredible views of mount lemmon and the tucson valley in the background make this one of the most photogenic routes on the mountain. so photogenic, in fact, that it made the cover of one of the premiere guidebooks for arizona.
3. this is many people's first 5.11. anyone working their way up the grades will be told they have to get on steve's arete, and they do. and they love it.
4. 5-minute approach. couple this with items 1-3 and it's a must-do route for mount lemmon.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 7, 2014

To designate something as classic I usually consider if the climb is historically significant, striking in appearance, has good rock, and is fun to climb. The climb's length is not super important to me.
By John Steiger
Aug 7, 2014

Wasn't this climb on the area's first published guidebook? I know that wasn't anything near the artistic work we have nowadays, but it must count for something.