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 ADVANCED
Jabba Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
(Enter) Sandman 
Better Eat Yo Wheaties  
Blue Light Special 
Bush & Dirt Crack aka Pseudo-Cenotaph aka I Need a Shower 
Dune  
Face To Nowhere 
I Need a Batholith 
In Mesopotamia 
Jabba the Hutt Levitates 
Odale'! 
Offwidth Crack 
Steve Likes Offwidth 
Three Open Books 

Steve Likes Offwidth 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 673
Submitted By: eDixon on Aug 10, 2008
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Description 

This is actually a third pitch to I Need A Shower or a second pitch for In Mesopotamia. Climb the obvious, wide crack with many face holds leading up and right.


Location 

Start atop the second pitch of I Need A Shower.


Protection 

Standard East A rack + big gear.



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By Skyeler Congdon
From: his van
Apr 2, 2010

Heinous. Steve Likes Squeeze Chimney That Tapers to #6 OffWidth. I probably should have treated it more like a face climb instead of trying to use only OW technique.

I got some real tasty humble pie on this one....

By Gary N
From: Durango, CO
Dec 4, 2012

Hmmmm. Interesting.

I took a #5 & #6 BD C4, #4 Big Bro (blue), and some stoppers. Two #6s would be fine instead of the Big Bro. Maybe an extra #5 if you've got it.

Bring some gear to build an anchor at the top, as there are no bolts. I used a #1 & #4 BD C4 and some stoppers.

To get down, walk climbers' left to a set of bolts with thin cord and 2 oval screwlinks. Rap to the top of I Need A Shower, then once more to the ground.

By S.Mckinna
From: Durango, CO
Mar 31, 2013

You can also link this from the OW crack south of In Mesopotamia. Then you don't need bring gear much smaller than #2 up the wall.