Mountain Project Logo

Stepping on bolts?

Original Post
Rusty Shackleford · · Boulder County aka The Cent… · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

Hello,

I witnessed a person teaching a climbing clinic at a semi-popular sport crag. He had a group of clients who had obviously never climbed before so he was top-roping everyone. At first I thought nothing of it until he was instructing people to step on bolts as they struggled up. I haven't been climbing for too terribly long but this seems very negligent and inconsiderate.

I really feel I should have spoke up and said something to the guy, and the people climbing. If I, by chance, ever encounter such a practice, should I speak up and disapprove of such actions/teachings?

Thanks for the feedback,
Anthony

teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

I think it's kind of silly, but no more than that.

Don't put your fingers through the hangar, though. In the event of a fall, you won't get that finger back.

Bill M · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 317

It does not impact you or you experience why do you care?

Rusty Shackleford · · Boulder County aka The Cent… · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

I care because what if it compromises the integrity of the bolt/hanger. That's why.

Scott Scharfenberg · · Santa Barbara, CA · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 15

Bolts are rated for much more than body weight. Aid climbers will sometimes step on bolts. As long as they're not grabbing the bolts with their hands (and risking de-gloving their fingers), I don't see any problem with doing this other than the fact that it's poor style.

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

You take falls on bolts and you think someone standing on them when they are having trouble climbing a route is bad? I don't see a problem with it but don't do it when you are leading because you could take a bad hit on the back of your head if the rope catches your leg.

Bill Czajkowski · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 20
Anthony O'Neill wrote:I care because what if it compromises the integrity of the bolt/hanger. That's why.
If someone stepping on the bolt compromises its integrity, would you trust it to hold a fall even if someone hadn't stepped on it? Or without knowing if someone had?
Rusty Shackleford · · Boulder County aka The Cent… · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

Cool. Makes sense. That was kind of my on-the-spot-thought. I revisited this in my head and kind of second guessed it and wanted to hear what others' thoughts were.

Joel Allen · · La Crosse, WI · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 265

I've taken beginners to a crag that the easiest route was a little harder than beginner level (the crag was close, that's why we went there). My friend was struggling so I told him to step on the bolts just never grab them.

It is no big deal at all and happens all the time.

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974

Makes you go blind

Bill Czajkowski · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 20
Mark E Dixon wrote:Makes you go blind
Yeah, but you can quit when the glasses start to get real thick!
Micah Klesick · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 3,971

Nothing wrong with stepping on or pulling on bolts. All depends on your level. I'd personally consider it cheating if I did that right now. But when I first started climbing, I'll admit I did that a couple times. No big deal.
Aid climbers do it all the time. :) I wouldn't recommend saying anything about it to whoever was instructing if you see that again.

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330
Bill Czajkowski wrote: Yeah, but you can quit when the glasses start to get real thick!
mountainproject.com/v/can-i…
Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

My only concern is that if you slip, you'll likely be looking at a major painful leg gash. Same with grabbing one. Worth a broken finger or bloody leg?

budman · · Moab,UT · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 11

A number of years ago climbing in The Valley a similar discussion arose and a French climber spoke up with and I quote him, "they would not have put the bolt there if it was not to stand on". When ever I'm trying to climb fast on something long and a bit hard for me to do and I see a bolt that quote just makes me smile as I step on that bolt. Must admit though it's just not the same without his accent. As In remember he was trying to recruit one of us to climb cookie Monster on gear, no slouch.

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
budman wrote:A number of years ago climbing in The Valley a similar discussion arose and a French climber spoke up with and I quote him, "they would not have put the bolt there if it was not to stand on". When ever I'm trying to climb fast on something long and a bit hard for me to do and I see a bolt that quote just makes me smile as I step on that bolt. Must admit though it's just not the same without his accent. As In remember he was trying to recruit one of us to climb cookie Monster on gear, no slouch.
If you're climbing it on gear, but are French, are you still allowed to step on the bolts...?
Jim T · · Colorado · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 469
Scott McMahon wrote:My only concern is that if you slip, you'll likely be looking at a major painful leg gash.
Saw that happen to a climber. Opened his knee right up, then he finished the climb. Left an incredible amount of blood on the rock.

I did it a couple times when I started but was quickly corrected by my partners. I wouldn't bother telling the students, they'll learn it soon enough from somebody. But don't let your partners do it
Jeremy Riesberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 5

Friends don't let friends pull or stand on gear. Free that shit son.

Rick Blair · · Denver · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 266

Telling people not to step on bolts would wrong. Making fun of them for doing it would be the right approach

Eric Engberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 0
JCM wrote: If you're climbing it on gear, but are French, are you still allowed to step on the bolts...?
French free
michael s · · Denver, CO · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 80

aid climbers step on bolts all the time? for realzy?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
Post a Reply to "Stepping on bolts?"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started