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Good ol' Steppenwolf.
This is a very cool crack on the Turkey Perch just right of Gobbler. It goes straight up hand crack that widens to fist and a 6 foot wide section that is hard. Just above this wide pod is hands that gradually get smaller to steep, shallow corner with offsize fingers (crux) that dies out at a bulge. Make reachy move to big hold to "escape" this blank section and move up to perfect hands on a less steep slab to a large tree belay (100 feet I'd guess). This is very sustained the whole way....
Small to large cams.
Matt Bauman leading the route. Go bldr Matt!
The lower jams are easy and with some face holds t...
Kevin climbing through the airy crux of Steppenwol...
Starting the wide section....
It's an enjoyable day.
Lee Rittenmeyer leading Steppenwolf.
Paul Cording topping out on Steppenwolf.
Nathan Meader leading Steppenwolf.
|By Darin Lang|
May 24, 2001
This is, IMO, the best of the routes at Turkey Perch. Sustained, varied climbing that will require about every size piece on your rack (except perhaps a Bigbro). Two distinct cruxes - the OW bulge and the off-finger crack right before the ledge. Both are solid 9, with sustained 8 the rest of the way.
|By Stewart M. Green|
May 20, 2003
First ascent by Steve Cheyney in the early 1970s. First as a top rope and then a lead. Very dicey pro with hexes and stoppers! Named of course for the Herman Hesse novel.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Oct 13, 2003
Wow. Amazing climb.Note: Watch out for a bat that lives in the off-fingers section (as of 10-11-03), just below the face climbing part.
|By Larry Shaw|
Jun 2, 2004
Are there any bad routes here? Haven't found one yet. I got worked by the fingers section but stuck with it.
|By Colin Coulson|
Sep 7, 2004
There are decent anchors on top of this one- a cord and a sling from which you can top rope or rap with a 60 meter rope. This anchor is shared with Gobble Up. If rapping be careful to find the center of your rope as a 60 m cord will put your tails about 4 feet of the ground.
|By Chris Dawson|
From: Denver, CO
Sep 20, 2004
Hey everyone, notice how in the picture above, the route Honky Ass Jam Crack is listed hilariously as Honky Jam Ass Crack. Oh god, that is funny.
Mar 29, 2006
Excellent route! The offwidth was the crux for me, although the hands section got me pretty pumped. Absolutely beautiful moves through the hands and onto the face.
|By Pat W|
Jun 12, 2006
Placed two #3s (Camalot) and a #4. Bring big stuff if you want to sew it up. Nice route.
|By Luke Clarke|
Jun 26, 2006
This is a great route and it may be they are all good on the south face. Second the gear recommendation for two #3s and a #4 Camalot to keep your mind easy through the wide part without back cleaning or leap frogging. I am sure some people can do without because the wide part is not the crux. I figured that came in the upper finger crack, which protects well with finger-sized cams (which finger cracks so often do).
|By Jason Kaplan|
From: Glenwood ,Co
Jun 11, 2007
This route was great! I got pretty pumped a couple times and wasn't sure if I would make it first go but I kept fighting and made it through the OW crux, the slim hands and fat fingers crux was tough too but I sturggled less there.
2 #3s, a 3.5, 4, 2 # 2s 2 #1s and that's about it, I still leapfrogged gear though.
I was sweatingh at the top, my face was so drenched I felt like I was crying or something.
|By David Hodges|
From: Parker, Colorado
Jun 18, 2007
IMHO, I think that this is a good route to gain confidence making the crux move with gear below your feet. The gear is good and the fall would be pretty clean. For the crux, I had a bomber yellow Alien and a #0.3 BD Camalot right above it. Very fun route requiring every technique in the book.
|By Phil Lauffen|
May 24, 2010
I felt the crux was the awfulwidth (my nemesis) and am in general very weak on it. However, I felt remarkably safe with just 2 #2s and one #3. There is a decent placement for the number 3 before the ow gets hard, and there is a bomber placement for the #2 at the crux, just reach deep in that crack.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Feb 26, 2012
High-top shoes will save the ankles some wear and tear on this one.
|By Mark Wyss|
From: Denver, CO
Sep 24, 2012
The OW crack section can be protected well with a 3, 4, and 5 cam.