Steppenwolf 

This is, IMO, the best of the routes at Turkey Perch. Sustained, varied climbing that will require about every size piece on your rack (except perhaps a Bigbro). Two distinct cruxes - the OW bulge and the off-finger crack right before the ledge. Both are solid 9, with sustained 8 the rest of the way.

First ascent by Steve Cheyney in the early 1970s. First as a top rope and then a lead. Very dicey pro with hexes and stoppers! Named of course for the Herman Hesse novel.

Wow. Amazing climb.Note: Watch out for a bat that lives in the off-fingers section (as of 10-11-03), just below the face climbing part.

Are there any bad routes here? Haven't found one yet. I got worked by the fingers section but stuck with it.

There are decent anchors on top of this one- a cord and a sling from which you can top rope or rap with a 60 meter rope. This anchor is shared with Gobble Up. If rapping be careful to find the center of your rope as a 60 m cord will put your tails about 4 feet of the ground.

Hey everyone, notice how in the picture above, the route Honky Ass Jam Crack is listed hilariously as Honky Jam Ass Crack. Oh god, that is funny.

Excellent route! The offwidth was the crux for me, although the hands section got me pretty pumped. Absolutely beautiful moves through the hands and onto the face.

Placed two #3s (Camalot) and a #4. Bring big stuff if you want to sew it up. Nice route.

This is a great route and it may be they are all good on the south face. Second the gear recommendation for two #3s and a #4 Camalot to keep your mind easy through the wide part without back cleaning or leap frogging. I am sure some people can do without because the wide part is not the crux. I figured that came in the upper finger crack, which protects well with finger-sized cams (which finger cracks so often do).

This route was great! I got pretty pumped a couple times and wasn't sure if I would make it first go but I kept fighting and made it through the OW crux, the slim hands and fat fingers crux was tough too but I sturggled less there.

2 #3s, a 3.5, 4, 2 # 2s 2 #1s and that's about it, I still leapfrogged gear though.

I was sweatingh at the top, my face was so drenched I felt like I was crying or something.

IMHO, I think that this is a good route to gain confidence making the crux move with gear below your feet. The gear is good and the fall would be pretty clean. For the crux, I had a bomber yellow Alien and a #0.3 BD Camalot right above it. Very fun route requiring every technique in the book.

I felt the crux was the awfulwidth (my nemesis) and am in general very weak on it. However, I felt remarkably safe with just 2 #2s and one #3. There is a decent placement for the number 3 before the ow gets hard, and there is a bomber placement for the #2 at the crux, just reach deep in that crack.

High-top shoes will save the ankles some wear and tear on this one.

The OW crack section can be protected well with a 3, 4, and 5 cam.