Start pulling on a right facing flake (don't cheat by going right—use the flake) then clip the 2nd bolt with nice holds. Next, find your way to the only pocket on the climb—3rd bolt.
You get a huge rest at bolt 4, then come two beautiful pinchers at the small overhang - clip - then find the sidepull to a sloper to a crimper, reach for a nice right hold using the undercling after that you have easy climbing to the chains.
This climb has it all. It's solid 12a and simply beautiful.
Well protected except the last part going to the chains.
This route is the 4th climb from the right on the south face of The WatchTower. Look for the right-facing, small flake feature for the start.
6 bolts to chains. There is a small runout to the chains but it's easy.
Perin Blanchard starting the crux.
Photo by Kip H...
|By Bad Sock Puppet|
Oct 12, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
Very sustained 5.12a with technical face climbing. The rock is very clean, and the hand holds are quite obvious. The feet however are a little tricky and require constantly trying to discern potential foot holds out of the solid smooth look of the rock (atypical AF style). The are two cruxes, with the first one right off the ground all the way to the second bolt. The second crux is from the 4th to the 6th bolt, where you encounter some balancy clips.