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1. Climb pretty much straight up the face 20 feet left of Moonlight to the GT ledge. 5.6, 130 feet.
2. Follow Moonlight to the start of its traverse. Go up and slightly left (crux) to the base of a short open book with clean, white rock. Go straight left around the corner and reconnect with Moonlight. 5.10a, 100 feet.
Start 20 feet left of Moonlight.
Standard 'Gunks rack.
Oct 12, 2010
I (think I) mistakenly started on this when climbing Moonlight. There's a short fissure/crack not far off the ground, that is perhaps only 5.6+ but certainly R. So, Step Lively's P1 is not a great first pitch for a moderate leader.
Oct 13, 2010
You know, Julie, you may have been on Moonlight. The traditional start to Moonlight is really lacking in pro until you reach the base of the left-facing corner.
Oct 15, 2010
Well, that's certainly what I thought at the time! :)
Most ropes/parties I've seen on Moonlight seem to get/scramble easily up to the ledge at ~10', step right around the left-facing corner at that level, then go up for ~10-20' before stepping back left into the corner proper. Or do what this guy's doing:
What I climbed was the same ~10' up, but ~15' left of the start of the left-facing corner, then face climbed up and over to the corner. It's the faint crack almost hidden behind leaves, on the left in the picture, at the same level as the climber shown.
Oct 16, 2010
Your way is the way I've started Moonlight too. I remember a few steps up that you couldn't protect, and then an easy does it couple of moves to the corner. The first time I was there a person who seemed wise in the ways of the cliff told me it was the way to go. The other way you are talking about is Dick's 5.2 variation 1 start, isn't it?
Oct 18, 2010
Likely, yes ...