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Step Lively 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ivan Rezucha, Annie O'Neill, 1984
Page Views: 615
Submitted By: Dana Bartlett on Apr 21, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

1. Climb pretty much straight up the face 20 feet left of Moonlight to the GT ledge. 5.6, 130 feet.

2. Follow Moonlight to the start of its traverse. Go up and slightly left (crux) to the base of a short open book with clean, white rock. Go straight left around the corner and reconnect with Moonlight. 5.10a, 100 feet.


Location 

Start 20 feet left of Moonlight.


Protection 

Standard 'Gunks rack.



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By JSH
Administrator
Oct 12, 2010

I (think I) mistakenly started on this when climbing Moonlight. There's a short fissure/crack not far off the ground, that is perhaps only 5.6+ but certainly R. So, Step Lively's P1 is not a great first pitch for a moderate leader.

By SethG
Oct 13, 2010

You know, Julie, you may have been on Moonlight. The traditional start to Moonlight is really lacking in pro until you reach the base of the left-facing corner.

By JSH
Administrator
Oct 15, 2010

Well, that's certainly what I thought at the time! :)

Most ropes/parties I've seen on Moonlight seem to get/scramble easily up to the ledge at ~10', step right around the left-facing corner at that level, then go up for ~10-20' before stepping back left into the corner proper. Or do what this guy's doing:

www.mountainproject.com/v/new_york/the_gunks/the_trapps/1065>>>

What I climbed was the same ~10' up, but ~15' left of the start of the left-facing corner, then face climbed up and over to the corner. It's the faint crack almost hidden behind leaves, on the left in the picture, at the same level as the climber shown.

By SethG
Oct 16, 2010

Your way is the way I've started Moonlight too. I remember a few steps up that you couldn't protect, and then an easy does it couple of moves to the corner. The first time I was there a person who seemed wise in the ways of the cliff told me it was the way to go. The other way you are talking about is Dick's 5.2 variation 1 start, isn't it?

By JSH
Administrator
Oct 18, 2010

Likely, yes ...

By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Apr 24, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Climbed this the way it's written up on this page and it felt 9ish. The Grey Dick description and picture seems to have the climb blasting through the series of hanging corners and not going "straight left" (which seems the obvious way to go once you're up there). The way it climbs is more of a Moonlight variation, the Grey Dick write up has it taking a wholly independent line through the lichen between Moonlight and Erect Direction.