Steorts' Ridge 

You can avoid the 3 rappels mentioned by hiking and downclimbing around past the aforementioned anchor. Skirt the top of the crag to the east, hike/climb down a ramp, around the corner, then over to a tree with a chain rap anchor. Climb down around 10 feet then straight left (easiest). This downclimb/hike off is easy but exposed, so be careful. Much faster than rappelling three times, especially if you stick a rope. As well, pulling your rope dislodges rocks onto folks climbing below, not a good thing at all.

I finally did this one today. Wow!! This is a must do. I was looking in my old book, and it has drawn topos of Dead Snag instead of the photo (much better). It shows the 2nd pitch dropping right from the belay station to the ledge and then continuing up past 2 old pitons, and then working through the bulge and into the hand/fist/offhand crack. I don't recommend this variation as it creates heinous rope drag, and it doesn't add anything. The crack on pitch 2 is great and protects well, and as John says, on the 3rd pitch protection is sparse. This 3rd pitch (to me at least) seemed very exposed, more so than the right variation on Outside Corner, JHCOB Wall.

Also, I believe the variation Peter mentions is actually the 2nd half of pitch 2 on Jig's Up. Also very enjoyable.

A BC classic! Don't cheat yourself on pitch 3... get on that arete!

Great climb! Crack on Pitch 2 gets a bit off-width. Might want to bring a couple of the big cams such as Metolius #8-10.

If you have two 60m ropes simply tie them together. You can rap all the way from the anchors. You will end up on a small shelf about 5 feet above the ground which you can easily scramble down.

I did this in two pitches with my 60m rope. The first pitch is enjoyable, but the second is excellent. On the first pitch I went up to the second ledge (the flat one with a big block you can sling). The second pitch transitions about 10 feet to the right and then goes directly up the obvious fist size crack. I protected this with a single #3 Camalot which I walked up once. It would be better to have two large pieces. The crack is a solid fist jam crack, but very smooth rock. At the top of the crack move out onto the arete and enjoy the view. Simply amazing. I clipped two fixed cams, a fixed nut, and a solid bolt. Above the crack, other than the fixed gear, there is a couple places for small cams (.1 - .3 Camalot). Overall, protection on the last 50 feet is sparse, but not run out, and the holds are plentiful and solid. Sling a solid tree for your 2nd pitch anchor. I had about 15 feet or rope left when I topped out.

To view a 10 minute car to car ascent of this climb, (for the record it usually takes me 10 minutes to walk to the base) check out www.door5.com where you can watch Ryan McDermott's free solo in running shoes.

A 70 meter rope will get you to the belay ledge for the last pitch. You can sling a small ledge on the last pitch arete for additional pro. If you do rap you can combine raps 2 & 3 w/70 meter rope but barely.

great climb, can combine the last two pitches into one on a 60m rope. Both belay stations each have an old piton. Second pitch vertical crack has tons of cams in it so I guess its a gobbler. I didn't use anything bigger than a metolius #8. Belay stations love nuts and maybe bring some webbing or cordelette for the tip top tree anchor.

Fairly straightforward climbing on pitches 1 and 2, although each seems to have crux moves. The cruxes protect well, though. The belays at the end of P1 and P2 do not have chains; you will have to set your own anchors. Both belays have good stances and plenty of places to set good pieces.

Sketchy pro on the third pitch, especially after the bolt. Seems like the hand ledge 12-15 feet above the bolt was the first opportunity for a solid placement. Plenty of back and forth from the arete to the crack system. Climbing is easy on the arete and the view is magnificent.

However, after watching Ryan McDermott's sub 10 minute car-to-car lap, posting a bunch of beta seems ... trivial?

anyone else get their rope stuck after the first rappel? I think this is 2/2 for me. What the reaaaaaal dill

Great introduction to the wonderful climbing conditions in UT
Bring larger gear for the offwidth crack in pitch 2 - made for an uneasy couple moves with small cams in ...
Great views, great exposure - Totally in the moment! Thanks Russ!!!

Combining p2 and p3 is reasonable if you runner things long and don't place too much gear (or carefully place it in line). This makes for one of the best pitches of climbing I've ever done.

The downclimb to the south and down a single rap (or downclimb if you want) seems A LOT easier than 3 raps. It takes all of 4 minutes to walk over to the single rap from a tree with a chain around it.

No problem with the rope on the rappels for me except at the end when I tossed it into the tree, my fault not the routes. The second rap was kind of fun going over the little roof and you come down so close to your stuff at the bottom it's easy. We climbed this about 8:30 am on a Saturday and didn't see anyone else around till we were on our way down. The third pitch is great. You can climb up either side or both and it's so airy you seemed exposed in every direction, not just down. Seemed short and quick for 3 pitches. I wanted it to keep going.

Sweet route! A classic first multi-pitch lead!

Stellar climb! I think I did a variation to the starting pitch that involves pulling a 5.7-5.8 roof (See my description in the comment section for Die Another Day). For P2, I would have preferred to have doubles of BD C4[3-4], but I managed just fine with one of each and BD Hexes [8-9]. I stayed on the arete for the finish; pro was difficult, but I found some good placements right of the arete that I runnered long to the left side. I was very happy to have my small MasterCams [0-3]; I placed the purple [0] on every pitch. Combined raps 2-3 with 70m rope. I had no problem with my 70m, but tie knots just in case!

great climb. the last pitch seems a little run out but its easy so not bad. i remember wishing i had a number 4 for the first pitch anchors. used tcu's up to number 3 throughout the climb. fun route.

You can easily get down with one 60 meter rope by doing it in 3 rappels. The third rap anchors are just below the 5.8 roof and next to a bush. It is a 3 minute walk back to the base of climb from here, easily done in climbing shoes.

We combined this route with the 2nd pitch of Jig's Up. Made for some awesome and moderate climbing. However, we couldn't find the bolt at the start of the third pitch; maybe we traversed in above it.

I don't quite get the bolt on the third pitch. It's the only place I could find to put pro in (a few feet above or below it, don't remember). After that I looked around and took my time and couldn't find much. I don't know why someone didn't put that bolt 15-20 feet higher where it is really run out if they felt it needed one.

Fantastic route. I don't see how 250 feet of 5.6 could get any better. There's not a single loose rock on this thing. We easily combined the 2nd and 3rd pitches with a 70m rope.

The rappel route can be done in 2 rappels with a 70m rope. Do the first rap (~80 feet) and then combine the next 2. You'll end up just able to reach a stance about 10-15 feet off the ground, from which you can then scramble down to the ground.

This route, Steort's Ridge, is one of the premiere multi-pitch climbs in Big Cottonwood Canyon, and it is popular because of the terrific exposure, the variety of skills called upon and the excellent protection...it is THE stand-out route on the crag. Consequently, many parties are forced to retreat when weather comes in, or when one in the party is over their head. Currently, there are no fixed rap stations (paired bolts with chains) on the route itself, forcing a retreat from webbing (which becomes crispy and unsightly tat) or sacrificed gear. I have a suggestion: erect quality rap stations at the top of pitch one and two. There is a single Leeper-Z and a single ring-less pin at each of these stations, and that fixed gear has been there for decades: fixed gear at these belays is nothing new. In most of the areas I have climbed (Joshua Tree, Yosemite, Tahquitz, Suicide Rock) popular moderates are all outfitted with rap anchors. It's a public service, and it eliminates the need to leave unsightly tat, or ones own gear in a forced retreat. I thought of going up there and simply putting this in, but I wanted to avoid any sort of bolt chopping issue. I think the raps could be positioned away, to climber's left, from where the anchors would routinely be erected, which would allow retreating parties to not interfere with those who choose to remain on the climb. What do you think? And we linked the rap to the ground from the first station with a single 70m rope...barely...

Sorry Dude,

Adding rap anchors to Steorts is an awful idea. I've lost a few stoppers when I was forced to retreat in a rainstorm on that wonderful ridge, however I feel that its just part of the experience. People need to learn how to deal with stuff like that if they ever want to venture out, beyond the "public service" routes. You would help they newbies more if your refrained from this. Thanks for posting, rather than doing it and starting up a poop storm.

One vote for NO

-Tda

Another No vote here. In fact it is completely unthinkable. Like Nacho said, if you gotta bail for some reason, leaving a couple nuts behind is not a big deal. Installing rap anchors up there would be a huge dis-service to the climbing community.

You mean the rap anchors that have already been added to this area are not enough? Those anchors where not there 20 years ago. It was a walk off back then. I would vote no to any bolts being added to this route.

Anchors on this would get chopped in a second, and rightly so.

Another very strong "NO!" to adding fixed anchors to this route.

And you can bet if you add anchors to any moderates at any of the other locations you mentioned they'd be chopped in a heartbeat. The statement that "Joshua Tree, Yosemite, Tahquitz, Suicide Rock) popular moderates are all outfitted with rap anchors" is absolutly not true. Folks in those areas, when they're ready to lead a route, learn how to build anchors and judge the conditions and weather. If they blow it, they leave gear. And...that's ok.

Fairly easy downclimb/downlead from the first pitch, easy walk off from the last, and, very easy to leave a couple stoppers at the top of p2 if you need to bail.

There is no crispy webbing on this route (I know 'cause I've climbed it a few times this year, and, every year). There are no Leeper Z pitons either (being a bit of a gear junkie, I know what those are). I've seen folks bail off that single soft iron pin at the first pitch belay (yikes!) which they could have easily backed up (wish they would have, I bootied their biner of the pin the next day). There is no "unsightly tat" on this route.

I also wouldn't be opposed to removing the rappel line that goes down to the left. No need for that. Takes way longer than the easy walk and scramble off.

Brian in SLC wrote: "I also wouldn't be opposed to removing the rappel line that goes down to the left. No need for that. Takes way longer than the easy walk and scramble off."

+1 (as well as +1 to not adding fixed anchors).

+1, +1, +1

There you go... Brian drove the nail in one strike.

Adding convenience bolts to this route is such a bad idea that I don't know where to begin....just don't do it! Traditional classics need to be preserved.

I fall into the "NO" camp for adding anchors on Steort's Ridge also.

However, please do not remove the rappel anchor to climber's left. It also serves at the anchor to a pretty decent climb I installed several years ago. At the very least, please contact me or my partner (Rob C.) to discuss the matter.

Thank you.

Even as a complete noob, I can cast a hearty "NO" on adding belay anchors. That sounds silly.
This was my first multi-pitch trad lead, after learning gear placement on a route the day before. I appreciated the LACK of bolted belay anchors, because I got to practice BUILDING them (isn't that integral to multi-pitch trad?).

On the positive side: This was an awesome first multi-pitch trad lead!! Lovely rock, good variety of moves, excellent arete with sweet exposure... Everything I'd have asked for and more :)

Awesome route. Would be an awesome first multi-pitch trad lead.

Very fun climb. I totally agree about the last pitch: slap that arete all the way up. I'm a 5.6 climber and found the bit of run out on the edge great! I got a BD .3 in a horizontal above the bolt, but I would only give that a 3 out of 4 chance in holding body weight. I did get a good placement right above the belay, which is always a good feeling.

In the middle of the climb, get into that off-fists crack! It's awesome! Just when you think you're going to struggle with that next foot, there's a ledge or an edge in there! It's spectacular. The best part of the route for sure!

I totally agree: do not add any bolts! It is completely unnecessary and would wreck a good climb. The only bolt that is needed is already there. The raps were set up perfectly as well. If you're considering adding new bolts to any established climb anywhere in the world ever, go climbing with a mature (eg: old) trad guy for a year before you put a bolt kit into your pack.

Climbed this today in 2 pitches. It was so windy that I thought I was gonna be blown off the arete. Made the 5.6 climb more exciting.Came down in 2 raps with a 70. Barely. Super fun route.
Found some sunglasses at the bottom. Hit me up if you want them back.
Oh, and my car window was bashed in and my sister's purse was stolen. So be careful not to leave any valuables visible while parked on the road. There are some junky banditos out there.

Found pair of LaSportiva climbing shoes at the top of this route 4/28/2013. If they belong to you contact me at pedacus at gmail dot com.