The route goes straight up the steep gold dihedral to the left of Black Nepalese and Dope Show. Climb easy flakes and knobby face to the dihedral. Climb through the roof and clip the first bolt and up the amazing dihedral to a bolted anchor on the left just below the big roof.
Start at the base of Drug Dome to the left of Black Nepalese and Dope Show. Rap from the bolted anchor using two 60m ropes or one 70m rope.
nuts: 1 set, cams: 2 ea. 0.6-2, 2 draws for bolts. Bolted anchor with rap rings at the top.
|By Greg Barnes|
Sep 16, 2012
Pitch length is 120', not 80'. Some 70m ropes are not quite long enough, but easy to swing a bit left - tie knot in end of rope!
From: San Francisco, CA
Jul 3, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
This can be done with one 60 m rope. After clipping the mussy hooks at the top the leader can be lowered to the huge ledge to the right of the beginning of the dihedral and belay the second from there. After the second tops out they can be lowered back to the ground and it is possible for the first to walk off to the right down a ramp system back to the ground.
Interesting climb but the 10a good part is short.
Jul 22, 2013
Major rockfall over this route last saturday (7/20/13). As we were standing back considering the climb, basketball-sized blocks rained around (but somehow missed) the party setting up at the base. Probably tripped (but not called out) by folks rap bolting far above.