Stem the Tide 5.10d R
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | Merill Bitter, Stuart Ruckman, 1983 |
| Submitted By: | Nathan Fisher on Jun 30, 2005 |
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The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>
Unknown by many people, the land, from at the LDS Church record vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. The privately-owned areas include The Fin, The Thumb Area, Green Adjective Gully, Schoolroom Area, and Gate Buttress.
Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors in part because of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quarried and is presently under restoration and re-vegetation. The climbers' trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the trail so that this area can recover.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Just below the anchors for Satan's Corner is a dihedral with three bolts. This climb forces you to stem almost the entire way up this near vertical line. The stems are mouth-watering and wide, the holds are nearly non-existent, the fall potential is long. If you do Satan's and don't have the fearlessness for this lead, at least TR this route and then do it again. I would almost say this is better than Satan's.
Protection 3 bolts and shared anchors with Satan's Corner.
| Comments on Stem the Tide |
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By vincent pierce
Aug 27, 2005
rating: 5.10d
| well this would be a scary ass lead but... if you do satans then u MUST toprope this climb. Crazy stemming will get you up it... just barely. |
By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.10d
| body english yeah. put up on the lead w/pins . merrill is my hero |
By tenesmus
Apr 13, 2006
| Its actually kinda less scary to lead for some reason. I don't understand why, but it was. |
By KPRTX
Dec 4, 2008
| I tried to onsite it, the falls don't feel so good if you come off weird. I haven't gone back to try again, soon... I don't think you need to top rope it either, give it a good english try on lead first. |
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jul 29, 2009
| I admit that I did this on TR. Crazy stuff and movement that I never expected. Would be a PROUD lead! |
By kyclimber
Jul 29, 2009
| I watched Chris from Black Diamond solo this route a little while back...wild |
By Christian West
Sep 30, 2011
rating: 5.10d
| Did this top rope, was some crazy stemming involved that got my heart going. |
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