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Dihedrals Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black and White John and Mary T 
Core Shot S 
Equipment Overhang T 
Equipment Overhang Right T 
Fallen Angel Variation T 
Half-A-Finger T 
Incubator S 
Lisa's Shoulder T 
Satan's Corner T 
Satan's Nook T 
Stem the Tide S 

Stem the Tide 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Merill Bitter, Stuart Ruckman, 1983
Page Views: 1,874
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 30, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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Description 

Just below the anchors for Satan's Corner is a dihedral with three bolts. This climb forces you to stem almost the entire way up this near vertical line. The stems are mouth-watering and wide, the holds are nearly non-existent, the fall potential is long. If you do Satan's and don't have the fearlessness for this lead, at least TR this route and then do it again. I would almost say this is better than Satan's.

Protection 

3 bolts and shared anchors with Satan's Corner.


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By vincent pierce
Aug 27, 2005
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

well this would be a scary ass lead but... if you do satans then u MUST toprope this climb. Crazy stemming will get you up it... just barely.
By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

body english yeah. put up on the lead w/pins . merrill is my hero
By tenesmus
Apr 13, 2006

Its actually kinda less scary to lead for some reason. I don't understand why, but it was.
By KPRTX
Dec 4, 2008

I tried to onsite it, the falls don't feel so good if you come off weird. I haven't gone back to try again, soon... I don't think you need to top rope it either, give it a good english try on lead first.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jul 29, 2009

I admit that I did this on TR. Crazy stuff and movement that I never expected. Would be a PROUD lead!
By kyclimber
Jul 29, 2009

I watched Chris from Black Diamond solo this route a little while back...wild
By Christian West
Sep 30, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Did this top rope, was some crazy stemming involved that got my heart going.
By dnaiscool
6 days ago

If you rap from the top of Satan's Corner and peek at the rock in front of you, does that negate the "On Sight?" Anyway, I led this with no preview and no info...and it was plenty scary. I found a place to fiddle in gear 10' above the first bolt, so I locked in that stem and pulled up a long loop of rope to drop down to my belayer. He clipped on a...

.5 Tricam (the pink one) and a #3 RP....

I equalized these behind that roundish flake on the right wall, got back on belay and kept it cool to the top.

You are looking at a fall almost (probably) to the deck just before each clip. And at the last moves, which are the most insecure, the fall would drop you from the vertical down to the lower angled slab below. When I led this I was on-sighting .11d, and this climb pegged my 'Danger Meter.'

Since there is potential for a 50+ foot fall that could land you on the ledge, I'll give this lead an (R/X) for the on-sight...and don't forget that specific pro to get you up to the second bolt.

Anyone who is soloing this is most likely a 5.12 climber, so don't kid yourself into thinking it's a push-over climb for the grade because it gets soloed...it is not.
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