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Black and White John and Mary T 
Core Shot S 
Equipment Overhang T 
Equipment Overhang Right T 
Fallen Angel Variation T 
Half-A-Finger T 
Incubator S 
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Satan's Corner T 
Satan's Nook T 
Stem the Tide S 

Stem the Tide 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Merill Bitter, Stuart Ruckman, 1983
Page Views: 1,841
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 30, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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Just below the anchors for Satan's Corner is a dihedral with three bolts. This climb forces you to stem almost the entire way up this near vertical line. The stems are mouth-watering and wide, the holds are nearly non-existent, the fall potential is long. If you do Satan's and don't have the fearlessness for this lead, at least TR this route and then do it again. I would almost say this is better than Satan's.


3 bolts and shared anchors with Satan's Corner.

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By vincent pierce
Aug 27, 2005
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

well this would be a scary ass lead but... if you do satans then u MUST toprope this climb. Crazy stemming will get you up it... just barely.
By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

body english yeah. put up on the lead w/pins . merrill is my hero
By tenesmus
Apr 13, 2006

Its actually kinda less scary to lead for some reason. I don't understand why, but it was.
Dec 4, 2008

I tried to onsite it, the falls don't feel so good if you come off weird. I haven't gone back to try again, soon... I don't think you need to top rope it either, give it a good english try on lead first.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jul 29, 2009

I admit that I did this on TR. Crazy stuff and movement that I never expected. Would be a PROUD lead!
By kyclimber
Jul 29, 2009

I watched Chris from Black Diamond solo this route a little while back...wild
By Christian West
Sep 30, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Did this top rope, was some crazy stemming involved that got my heart going.
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