Stem Gem V4
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| Type: | Boulder, 20 feet |
| Consensus: | V4 [details] |
| FA: | John Bachar |
| Submitted By: | RTM on Feb 2, 2003 |
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Steve Schneider, Banny Root and Mike Paul having f...
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Description Located in a small group of campsites on the Southern end of the Blob formation. Please ask permission for bouldering in occupied campsites.
Stem Gem is the Quintessencial JTree boulder problem, embodying the essence of Joshua Tree climbing: Highly technical and often times perplexing movement across extremely friction dependant, featurless granite. Indeed, this problem has nary a hold on it, the only thing making it climbable is its coarse friction and the undulating nature of the stone.
Getting both feet off the ground on this problem can be an event in itself, bringing ones flexability and stemming prowess to task. Start by stemming up the concave face and then traversing right across a faint/blunt arete. Most continue right and stand on the "bump", however it is possible to avoid the bump and friction direct (v3 friction in itself), continue up the water groove and to the top of the boulder. Jump across boulder to get off.
Protection standard bouldering gear
Steven Powers on stem gem, photo Kevin Calvert
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Moving onto the finishing slab of Stem Gem (V4), J...
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Emily Craft on Stem Gem
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Duke on Stem Gem
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Tavis tries not to grease off the slippery smears ...
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Extremo Terveeno sending the gem...
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Banny Root on Stem Gem
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Goofing off on Stem Jem. I almost sent this probl...
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Pic. Credits to Dan
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By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Apr 30, 2010
| I onsighted this twice in one day! |
By camtron
From: Huntington Beach, Ca
Jan 10, 2012
| The starting foot dish is getting crumbly. It seems like this area of the rock has changed a lot since its first ascent. Looking at the old photos of the rock you will notice the 3 slashes are not present. |
By A.Javi.Gecko
From: San Diego, CA
Dec 27, 2012
rating: V4
| The lessons I learned from Stem Gem:
1) Get up at dawn when friction is good
2) trust the ball bearings.
3) One quartz crystal can make all the difference. Literally. I sent by smedging on a single crystal.
4) Palm-friction saves the day.
Also, according to this:
www.fishproducts.com/powerandrubber/grades.html
Stem Gem is V2... WTF? |
By Robbie Brown
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 14, 2013
| you can't onsight something twice bro |
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