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Stem Gem Boulder
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Stem Gem 

Stem Gem 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

   
Type:  Boulder, 20'
Original:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: John Bachar
Page Views: 10,733
Submitted By: RTM on Feb 2, 2003

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Steve Schneider, Banny Root and Mike Paul having f...

Description 

Located in a small group of campsites on the Southern end of the Blob formation. Please ask permission for bouldering in occupied campsites.

Stem Gem is the Quintessencial JTree boulder problem, embodying the essence of Joshua Tree climbing: Highly technical and often times perplexing movement across extremely friction dependant, featurless granite. Indeed, this problem has nary a hold on it, the only thing making it climbable is its coarse friction and the undulating nature of the stone.

Getting both feet off the ground on this problem can be an event in itself, bringing ones flexability and stemming prowess to task. Start by stemming up the concave face and then traversing right across a faint/blunt arete. Most continue right and stand on the "bump", however it is possible to avoid the bump and friction direct (v3 friction in itself), continue up the water groove and to the top of the boulder. Jump across boulder to get off.

Protection 

standard bouldering gear


Photos of Stem Gem Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Stem Gem!
Stem Gem!
Rock Climbing Photo: Banny Root on Stem Gem
Banny Root on Stem Gem
Rock Climbing Photo: Emily Craft on Stem Gem
Emily Craft on Stem Gem
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving onto the finishing slab of Stem Gem (V4), J...
Moving onto the finishing slab of Stem Gem (V4), J...
Rock Climbing Photo: Goofing off on Stem Jem.  I almost sent this probl...
Goofing off on Stem Jem. I almost sent this probl...
Rock Climbing Photo: Stem Gem backwards, AKA MEGMETS, Very early ascent...
Stem Gem backwards, AKA MEGMETS, Very early ascent...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pic. Credits to Dan
Pic. Credits to Dan
Rock Climbing Photo: Extremo Terveeno sending the gem...
Extremo Terveeno sending the gem...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tavis tries not to grease off the slippery smears ...
Tavis tries not to grease off the slippery smears ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Duke on Stem Gem
Duke on Stem Gem
Rock Climbing Photo: Steven Powers on stem gem, photo Kevin Calvert
Steven Powers on stem gem, photo Kevin Calvert

Comments on Stem Gem Add Comment
Show which comments
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jul 28, 2006

Hard.
By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Apr 30, 2010

I onsighted this twice in one day!
By camtron
From: Huntington Beach, Ca
Jan 10, 2012

The starting foot dish is getting crumbly. It seems like this area of the rock has changed a lot since its first ascent. Looking at the old photos of the rock you will notice the 3 slashes are not present.
By A.Javi.Gecko
From: San Diego, CA
Dec 27, 2012
rating: V4 6B

The lessons I learned from Stem Gem:

1) Get up at dawn when friction is good

2) trust the ball bearings.

3) One quartz crystal can make all the difference. Literally. I sent by smedging on a single crystal.

4) Palm-friction saves the day.

Also, according to this:
fishproducts.com/powerandrubbe...

Stem Gem is V2... WTF?
By Robbie Brown
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 14, 2013

you can't onsight something twice bro
By Andy Liu
From: Eastern Sierra
Jan 18, 2016

By JeffreySJohnson
May 24, 2016

Does anyone know if my run/jump that goes up and left to the big incut has any repeats? I called it "Air Johnson". Latch the jug and face climb straight up, independent of "Slam Dunk".
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
May 24, 2016

That up and left run and jump was done decades ago. It used to be a quasi favorite that has fallen out of favor. Probable FA by John Yablonski, and I've even done it in the same time frame. Had to be like in 1981 or so. The one even further left where you jump off the boulder to the series of solution pockets is a good one too.
By JeffreySJohnson
May 24, 2016

Cool. I did it decades ago as well. Funny, Yabo didn't mention it to me all those days burning at Stoney. Mari either. That is good to know.
By JeffreySJohnson
May 25, 2016

Not a good enough line to tell the community about?

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