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The Penguins
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Stem Cell Research 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: B. Bindner and E. Holland, January 2009
New Route: Yes
Season: Sunny, south-facing route
Page Views: 391
Submitted By: Dave Daly on Mar 1, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Routes on the Penguins, Alabama Hills


Climb up the south side of the West Penguin past 9 bolts to mussy hooks at the top of the formation.


bolted route to mussy hooks.

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By BAd
Apr 24, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I don't quite get the "PG" rating. I'm basically a chicken and found it reasonable. HOWEVER, a short person will find the crux pretty dang hard. My wife--5'3"--ended up pulling a draw at the crux because she just couldn't reach the holds. So height does matter on this one. Overall, great fun!

PS: On most of the routes in the Hills, I stick-clip the first bolt. I don't see any point in risking a ground-out on these sport climbs.

By Dave Daly
From: Del Mar, CA
Jan 28, 2013

Agreed with your comment regarding the Pg13 rating. Went back and changed it since I haven't a clue why I added it. Fat finger editing? ;)

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