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Cruxing after dark.
Although it doesn't look like much, this short problem climbs great and is usually dry. Sit start on the left arete with your left hand on the arete, and right hand on a crimp. Pull up and bump out right to the vertical pinch/crimp, work your feet and make a hard match. A strong core, the right foot beta, and use of the thumb catch might make the move feel more realistic. Move right to a slopey rail as a gaston. Use some technique to match the rail and move right to a crimp, before bumping up again with the right hand to a better crimp. Use the sidepull with your left hand to assist in reaching the jugs above. Alternately, from the rail, power up and left into the sidepull/undercling and fire out right for a better hold and the top.
The landing can be a bit muddy although the sticks will keep your pad rather clean.
On a small boulder leaning against the Split Boulder and a tree.
From: Portland, ME
Aug 5, 2008
The beta I'm trying (suggested by a friend who sent using it) involves starting with hands crossed: right on the arete and left on the crimp. It also avoids matching on the skinny, vertical pinch, which I find fricking heinous.
|By Mike Thompson|
From: Manchester NH
Nov 21, 2009
how does this beta go? i was trying the the other day and the vertical match was RIDICULOUS! when you start hands crossed where do you go after that?
From: Portland, ME
Nov 23, 2009
I wish I knew. This problem pwns me.
You can try hitting the pinch right hand, then bumping out to flat edge. The idea then would be left hand to the pinch, get your body out onto the face, then do something else and then something else and then top out. Seriously, I've got no good ideas.
Aug 1, 2011
This video shows a footwork intensive solutiion for this problem. Working the pinch to matching the flat edge on the right is pretty stout too.