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The Malamute
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Stefanie's Tears 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Glenn Payan, John Thomson
Page Views: 785
Submitted By: ScottH on Sep 7, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Up the stump and left crack until you reach a grea...
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Description 

Stefanie's Tears is a sweet little 2 pitch climb right of High Mountain Woody. A small step up in difficulty and more sustained than that route, but well within the grasp of anyone leading HMW.

P1. Scramble up past the tree stump into a left-angling finger crack. When you reach the large undercling on the right, reach over and clip the second bolt on Neighbourhood Bully, then move right (tricky and fun) and finish up the arete. Nice exposure and committing moves take you to a bolted belay on View Ledge. 5.9

P2. Climb the obvious corner crack above. There are certainly many ways to do this, but it is a fun layback. 5.8


Location 

Stefanie's Tears climbs the rightmost crack on the Starr Wall. Descend to the best of HMW via your method of choice, then scramble down the ledge another 20 feet to a finger crack above a flake and cedar stump. This is the start of Stefanie's Tears, Gonch Pull, and Neighbourhood Bully.


Protection 

Gear to 1". A double or two around .5 or .75 camalot is nice for the second pitch, but not needed. Bolted anchors.



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