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A steep, blocky start leads to more civilized climbing along a finger crack, which finishes at the ledge below the right side of the roof. Exit right around the roof, past the precarious-looking flat rock.
On the Redneck Wall, on your way from the Island toward Boobs. Look for a ledge with a roof above it at the top of the wall. On the right side of the roof, there is a flat boulder wedged at an angle. The climb starts under the right end of the roof.
standard rack, long slings for toproping