This route is a MUST DO for the honed NC climber. It is unique and demands a well rounded skill set to achieve the red-point. This groove is unique and each pitch requires different techniques! The first half of the route climbs the apron below the head wall, and begins right of where the original Laurel Robbins (the retro-ed Have and Not Need) ascends the cliff. We maintained "the spirit of the area" by including mandatory run outs on moderate terrain, to keep the not-so-hard sections interesting. Protection is found near most hard moves, but be forewarned, this is a serious route.
P1 5.9 200' Go left at the first bolt, aim for an overlap with a hand crack. Climb straight up to a quartz hold (yellow C3), sling a hold, clip 2 bolts then keep a cool head on your way to the Fathom Direct bolt located above the dike and a bit right of the groove. Stretch it out to the anchor.
P2 5.10 200' Step left and enjoy the awesome features to the first bolt. Pass a crack, and eventually a couple bolts. Above the 3rd bolt look left and go clip the first of the 4 bolts that this route shares with Have and Not Need / Laurel Robbins. Stretch it out to the anchor.
P3 5.12 135' Climb straight up to a hole. Climb up to another hole, then clip. Continue up the groove past more bolts. The 4th is a Fathom bolt. A tight finger size nut protects you clipping the 5th bolt. Climb out the bulge and entering the groove and continue up this technical amazing section of the route passing bolts to a two bolt anchor in the teacup.
P4 5.10 160' Climb over the bolt protected bulge using cool compression and high stepping then continue up the arcing groove using well spaced natural protection to the 2 bolt belay on the comfortable and spacious Mossy Mouse Ledge.
P5 5.12 50' Crux pitch, short & sweet. Boulder your way on good holds up past the 2nd bolt. Find the 'crucial crystal' and then fire the crux. This short pitch packs a bit of a bouldery punch. 2 bolt anchor.
P6 5.11 190' 'Two Rivers Country' Climb over the right of the double grooved bulges via awesome technical moves. Then run it out to the next bulge and clip high. Surmount this bulge via big powerful moves on good holds! Climb past a cedar tree, then one final bulge then up to the two bolt anchor.
Rappel the route.
Between Hone Ranger and Have and Not Need.
(2) #1 C3 - #3 C4
(1) #4 C4
(1) small finger size nuts
(2) 60m or 70m ropes (5' of simuling on P1&2 w 60s to share H&NN anchor)
BETA PHOTO: Joey Wolfe photo
BETA PHOTO: Topo overlay
Nathan Brown photo
photo credit Chris Wisenhunt
The FA team on P2
Photo credit Chris Wisenhunt
|By burlap submariner|
Jan 25, 2013
Just when I thought that the "escape hatch" was direct.....Nice work guys, what an amazing opportunity.