Steep in the Teacups of Laurel  5.12d

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 6 pitches, 935 feet Consensus:  5.12d [details] FA:  Mike Fischesser, Joe Lovenshimer, Brad Wilson 2012 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  BradWilson on Dec 10, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Overview of the route

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2013 Closures MORE INFO >>> Big Lost Cove Cliffs are closed to climbing due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This route climbs a memorable groove. The first half of the route climbs the apron below the head wall. At half way the route steepens and climbs in and out of the teacups. We tried to maintain the spirit of the area by including mandatory run outs on moderate terrain. Protection is found near most hard moves.

P1 5.9 200' Go left at the first bolt, aim for an overlap with a hand crack. Climb straight up to a quartz hold (yellow C3), sling a hold, clip 2 bolts then keep a cool head on your way to the Fathom Direct bolt located above the dike and a bit right of the groove. Stretch it out to the anchor.

P2 5.10 200' Step left and enjoy the awesome features to the first bolt. Pass a crack, and eventually a couple bolts. Above the 3rd bolt look left and go clip the first of the 4 bolts that this route shares with Have and Not Need / Laurel Robbins. Stretch it out to the anchor.

P3 5.12 135' Climb straight up to a hole. Climb up to another hole, then clip. Continue up the groove past more bolts. The 4th is a Fathom bolt. A tight finger size nut protects you clipping the 5th bolt. Climb out the bulge and get your groove on, passing bolts to a two bolt anchor in the teacup.

P4 5.10 160' Climb over the bulge passing bolts then up the arcing groove using natural protection to the 2 bolt belay on Mossy Mouse Ledge.

P5 5.12 50' Crux pitch, short & sweet. Tech up past the 2nd bolt. Find the 'crucial crystal' then dyno. 2 bolt anchor.

P6 5.11 190' 'Two Rivers Country' Climb over the right of the two grooves. Climb to the next bulge clip high. Pass a cedar tree. Surmount one final bulge and climb to the two bolt anchor.

Rappel the route.

Location 

Between Hone Ranger and Have and Not Need.

Protection 

(2) #1 C3 - #3 C4
(1) #4 C4
(1) small finger size nuts
(2) 60m or 70m ropes (5' of simuling on P1&2 w 60s to share H&NN anchor)
quickdraws
24" slings
48" slings

Photos of Steep in the Teacups of Laurel Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: Topo overlay	The FA team on P1&2 Photo credit Chris Wisenhunt	P3 FA photo credit Chris Wisenhunt
P4 FA from the belay	TOPO