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1. Climb the face of the pillar to a ledge at its top. It's quicker, easier, and no less (much more! - ed.
) pleasant to solo up the right-facing corner on the right side of the pillar. 5.5 or 4th class, respectively, 40 feet.
2. From the right side of the ledge, go up and a bit right to several small, left-facing corners; these are 25 feet or so off the ledge. From the last of these, move over a bulge (crux) then go straight up to the GT ledge. The latest guidebook mentions mentions passing a piton; the only pin on this pitch is within arm's reach while you are standing on the ledge. 5.9, 60 feet.
3. Scramble up and left. Then move straight up the face past a small pod, pass to the left of a large flake and on to the top. 5.6, 100 feet.
Notes on P3 from kswissto
- Deep Lichen (left) and Steep Hikin (right) parallel each other.
- Deep Lichen is completely clean and there is a strip of clean, white rock. Definitely PG/PG13 depending on your comfort level. Becomes more PG if you carry tricams.
- Steep Hikin is COVERED in deep lichen and you can't see it/find it anymore.
At the left end of the Arrow
wall area, just before the trail goes up and then back down to Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct
. Look for a dirty, broken, right-facing corner that is approximately 40 feet high.
Rappel from bolts at the clifftop over Three Doves
Apr 23, 2010
Climbed this 2 weeks ago. The first pitch is all lichen. But the 2nd pitch is fun with a short, yet challenging little crux. There is a pin out there, but it is nearly impossible to see with all of the lichen.
From: Jersey City, NJ
Oct 8, 2013
The top pitch is really very nice and unusual for the area, but I thought it was harder than 5.6. A nice alternate if there are lines on the second pitches nearby. Maybe a decade of Gunks' roofs has ruined my slab climbing, but I found it quite stimulating as a lead with just enough gear to keep it from feeling "r".
Oct 13, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Do Red Pillar (to the right) if you're not comfortable on Deep Lichen's run-out 5.8 climbing.