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Steelhead 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Jeff Wenger, Jamie Wenger, 2/08
Page Views: 498
Submitted By: Max Tepfer on Feb 21, 2010

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Seasonal Raptor Closure starts Jan 15 each year; No top access - private land MORE INFO >>>

Description 

If technical, delicate stemming is your bag, this routes for you. A slight notch harder than Space Mission, Steelhead features a similar, somewhat baffling stemming crux down low, followed by sustained, but easier climbing above.

This route, (like Space Mission) isn't an ideal top-roper as a climber falling off the low crux that's not getting power-belayed is likely to tickle the ground. Conversely, on lead, there is ample gear and the bottom could be easily french freed if you were unable to work out the moves. That being said, you have to know how to properly place small (tiny to some) gear.

Location 

Locate the obvious gray scar at the base of twin cracks in between Gateway and Bushwhacker. (visible in either of those routes' photos)

Protection 

Lots of thin cams. I used RPs, a red Ballnut, triples of green and red C3s, doubles up to 0.5 C4s and 1 0.75. This route takes stoppers better than most of the lines at Trout and the gear through the crux is plentiful and bomber.


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By Jon Rhoderick
May 19, 2013

While I haven't yet gotten on this route, it is getting a reputation for having tricky pro and grounder potential at the bottom of the route. Take care and suss out those moves if your not feeling up for it, several people have decked and been veeeeeery lucky to walk out.
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
May 22, 2013

More specifically, two people have ripped gear and hit the ground. Both were basically okay. (which is surprising given the landing!) I fell on every move of the first 30' of the climb before I sent and never had an issue. Adventure-spoiling gear beta below:

An RP and ballnut inches apart go in before first not-easy move. A green c3 (or two or three-it's been awhile) after that and a blue before the overlap. A medium wire above the lip perfectly protects the crux. All on the left crack.