Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
The Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anorexic Doughboy 
California Weakender 
Chinese Chicken 
Dame El Oro 
Diminishing Returns 
Double Trouble 
Fall Line 
Fire and Sage 
Full Clip 
Fun Soup 
Geologic Time 
Gods Must Be Angry, The 
Gold Rush 
Guillotine, The 
Hip to Toe 
JR Token 
Landing a Monster 
Lively Up Yourself 
Long March, The 
May Fly, The 
Midas Touch 
Mr. Squiggles 
Out of the Question 
Out Ridin' Fences 
Purple Pinky Eater 
Question Air Box, The 
Redd Alert 
Reservation Blues 
River Wide, The 
Sleepy Hallow 
Space Between, The 
Space Mission 
Time Bomb 
Two Step Left 
Two Step Right 
Unknown 1 
Unknown 2 
Winter Sustenance 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Jeff Wenger, Jamie Wenger, 2/08
Page Views: 470
Submitted By: Max Tepfer on Feb 21, 2010
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Seasonal Raptor Closure starts Jan 15 each year; No top access - private land MORE INFO >>>


If technical, delicate stemming is your bag, this routes for you. A slight notch harder than Space Mission, Steelhead features a similar, somewhat baffling stemming crux down low, followed by sustained, but easier climbing above.

This route, (like Space Mission) isn't an ideal top-roper as a climber falling off the low crux that's not getting power-belayed is likely to tickle the ground. Conversely, on lead, there is ample gear and the bottom could be easily french freed if you were unable to work out the moves. That being said, you have to know how to properly place small (tiny to some) gear.


Locate the obvious gray scar at the base of twin cracks in between Gateway and Bushwhacker. (visible in either of those routes' photos)


Lots of thin cams. I used RPs, a red Ballnut, triples of green and red C3s, doubles up to 0.5 C4s and 1 0.75. This route takes stoppers better than most of the lines at Trout and the gear through the crux is plentiful and bomber.

Comments on Steelhead Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jon Rhoderick
May 19, 2013

While I haven't yet gotten on this route, it is getting a reputation for having tricky pro and grounder potential at the bottom of the route. Take care and suss out those moves if your not feeling up for it, several people have decked and been veeeeeery lucky to walk out.

By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
May 22, 2013

More specifically, two people have ripped gear and hit the ground. Both were basically okay. (which is surprising given the landing!) I fell on every move of the first 30' of the climb before I sent and never had an issue. Adventure-spoiling gear beta below:

An RP and ballnut inches apart go in before first not-easy move. A green c3 (or two or three-it's been awhile) after that and a blue before the overlap. A medium wire above the lip perfectly protects the crux. All on the left crack.