Steel Your Face
|4,936 page views|
Near the top of the route.
An excellent, classic slab, marked by thin cruxes and long, balance marked reaches. Fairly well protected, this tenuous route has only one definite crux, but plenty of "heads-up climbing" everywhere else. A wandering line with good movement and mass appeal. A great lead and a really nice climb!
While the grade has been debated, 5.10a/b (E1 5b) seems to be the benchmark. Your size, reach, and skill will become a prime factor when coming to your own consensus, expect minor fluctuations.
Six to eight draws lead to a two-bolt anchor.
Located further down the road towards the petroglyphs, Steel Your Face can be found immediately off the road and 30 feet left of a School Room style slab area. It is directly left of a vegeteted section of the wall which is home to Puppy Love.
Near the top on Steel Your Face. 5.10 rating is f...
Tim giving a little perspective as to where this r...
Terra at the crux of the climb.
Photo by Andy Li...
Wall Street fun
|Comments on Steel Your Face
|By L. Hamilton|
Apr 9, 2002
Your mileage may vary! Sandy friction -- I thought SYF was no giveaway at 5.10a. Try Puppy Love, the nice 5.9 next door, as an easier warmup if you're new to this rock.
|By Joel Hickok|
May 16, 2002
Damn good climb to improve your slab footwork or begin to lead slab climbs.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Sep 30, 2004
"good beginner/intermediate lead", bullshit! Just did this two days ago and thought it was solid 10a. It's dusty, and the holds are all rounded. I could believe this was easier before the masses climbed it when the edges were more squared, but I found it to be insecure and slippery for a good portion of the route. The crux was all that and sequential. Good route however, can top rope many routes from the top.
|By martin kocsis|
Apr 8, 2005
Crikey! suggestions of 5.9 or whatever need to be taken with a pinch of salt. in 2 weeks of moab climbing, this was the hardest single move i pulled off (with such style too!)...harder than the kor-ingalls offwidth (can you compare two such routes?) and a walk in the park compared to nervous in suburbia. perhaps the "good for beginners" comment is due to the extremely friendly bolting. the crux move is english 6a.cheerio!
|By Matt McMurray|
From: Castle Rock, CO
Nov 27, 2006
I found this route to be a solid 5.10 when I recently climbed it. I agree that several of the holds must have rounded etc. It was quite sandy, and the crux seemed reachy to me. The first bolt is a bit high, but relatively easy climbing to get to it. Funny thing about slab climbing... it always seems/looks easier from the bottom. =)
From: SLC, UT
Jun 3, 2007
I think this was harder than 5.10a on lead. You have to compare to other routes in the area. I personally think it was at least a letter grade harder than Nervous in S. Very balancy, much longer and broken hold on the crux.
|By Josh Petersen|
Oct 15, 2007
One of my favorites in the area for sure, although it feels just a bit harder every year. So many fun, tenuous, just barely there moves.
Be sure to TR the arete to the left, it is amazing, definitely worth taking a lap up.
|By Andy VanHouten|
From: Park City, UT
May 11, 2009
Interesting climb, super sandy at the bottom, but gets better as you get higher. Wouldn't rate this any harder than 10a, but it's no gimme. At least there are no pockets to get filled with sand....give it a whirl if you're in the area....
|By Rob Davies UK|
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 16, 2010
Excellent slab climb. Thin crux by bolt #5 and clipping bolt #7 is a long reach and balancy. UK grade E1 5c, like a much longer version of the Brush Off at Helsby but a lot safer.
|By Jon Marek|
Nov 27, 2012
If you can do the first moves, you can climb this route...but there may be a moment of doubt near bolt five. Gotta have faith in those feet. Would be classic if it didn't feel so sandy.
|By Brian Wright|
From: Glenwood Springs, Co
Mar 31, 2013
I second the crux being right around bolt 5 and the clip at bolt 7 being a little reachy and exciting. This climb is long and fun and sustained from the moment you step off the ground. I found it to be more like 5.10 b/c compared to what I am used to.