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Steel Pulse 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
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Submitted By: Chalu Kim on Jan 24, 2012

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Description 

The first pitch is 5.11a. The 2nd pitch is 5.12d. It leads to the Bronco Bowls, a cave. The 2nd pitch climbs steep pockets thru large hueco to anchors.

Anyone wanting to try 5.11a, the pros are great and its rating is firm.

Protection 

13 bolts to the first anchor. 70 m rope and 80 m rope preferred


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By ChrisHau
Feb 15, 2016

This route is slightly disappointing because it comes so close to being a classic. A few key issues prevent it from attaining that status, however.

First, it's got several drilled sinker two-finger pockets that allow passage between spaced hueco systems. Some of the edges looked to be chipped/enhanced as well, though it was hard to tell with the rock quality. Bringing me to my second point.

The rock doesn't live up to the excellent stone on Celestial and Fit for Life. It's crumbly drainage limestone, with a particularly concerning section leaving the belay. The otherwise cool pinch features kept dissolving on me. A good scrubbing and more traffic might help with this somewhat.

FInally, the bolts are nearing the end of their lifespan, with nearly all of them being rusty spinners. The run to the first bolt is a definite no-fall zone in a section of bad stone.

Despite all that, this route has a lot going for it. It's got an amazing position, and the moves are gymnastic and powerful. With a little bit of a facelift, it could definitely rank as one of the cooler 12+ pitches in the canyon.

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