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Box Canyon
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Steel Nuts 

Steel Nuts 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Kevin Rusk and Doug Waggner? Retrobolted by?
Season: Late Spring, Summer, Early Fall
Page Views: 2,106
Submitted By: Eckhard on Aug 22, 2008
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I cut the bottom of the route when taking this pho...

Description 

Wow, this is a fun climb. It has a bit of everything, crimps, jugs, roof, finger crack, plus some. Who ever placed the bolts did a great job placing and distancing them.


Location 

The crag is 200 ft from the North side of the road. This was the farthest left route on the rock that I found. There are two more to the right of this... the next route over is decorated with some biners from failed attempts, 1 by us:( Rappel down.


Protection 

50m rope barely cuts it. If I remember correctly 8, or 9 bolts plus anchors.



Photos of Steel Nuts Slideshow Add Photo
Jake right before the roof.
Jake right before the roof.
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By Dustin B
From: Steamboat
Aug 23, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

This route is/was called 'Steel Nuts' and given 5.8.
For a while it had no bolts and was a heady lead, but it has since sprouted them. I don't know who was the FA or if they would approve of the bolts, but the route will definitely get much more traffic, is much safer, and it is a nice climb with a short approach.

By Bryan Gilmore
From: Your Mama
Aug 24, 2008

Pretty sure the FA is Kevin Rusk and Doug Waggner. And yes, solid 5.8. While the bolts may be convenient, it's pretty lame!

By Greg D
From: Here
Sep 21, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Sorry to hear about the bolts. This was a great mixed route. The route's beginning has had a few bolts for many years where other protection didn't exist. But, the upper section of this route did accept reasonable natural protection. The new bolts certainly decrease this nice line's difficulty. Perhaps someone should chip a few holds to further decrease its difficulty. Finding adequete protection is part of a route's challenge. Placing bolts negates this.

Remember: "A person placing bolts has no more and no less right to do so than a person removing bolts."

By Dustin B
From: Steamboat
Sep 27, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Perhaps a name change is in order...climb it the original way (steel nuts) and the name is fitting, protected with stoppers and some cojones. Climb it the bolted way, maybe "no nuts" is fitting?

By Greg D
From: Here
Sep 30, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

No Nuts. I like it. Right on Dustin.

By matt j hartman
From: lander, wy
May 23, 2009

That route had 3 bolts a few years ago, which made sense as the start is pretty tough to protect. A friend came very close to dying on it in the '80s after a ground fall. Hence the bolts showing up at the beginning. I bet he would not approve of this as a sport route. It is one thing to put up good lines in a top down, sport style. It is another to retrobolt trad climbs cause you don't have the cajones to lead them. You can toprope this climb by hiking around to the top easily. So much for pride or tradition. "No nuts" sounds about right.

By SeanKuus
From: Steamboat Springs
Sep 1, 2010

Retrobolting is lame, but there there was once apparently a really scary accident here, and once you do it, you see why. If you don't approve of the retrobolting or just feel like making this scary, then don't clip the bolts - talk about nuts of steel.