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 ADVANCED
Black Velvet Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
American Flesh Dance (Combination of The Flesh plus American Ghost Dance) T 
Ancient Futures T 
Cutting Edge T 
Dream of Wild Turkeys T 
Epinephrine T 
Fiddler on the Roof T,S 
Gobbler, The T 
I'm Not Worthy T 
Johnny Come Lately S 
Lone Star T 
My Little Pony T 
Overhanging Hangover T 
Prince of Darkness T,S 
Refried Brains T 
Rock Warrior T 
Sandstone Samurai T 
Smooth as Silk T 
Sour Mash T 
Spark Plug T 
Steel Monkey T 
Texanephrine T 
Texas Hold 'Em T 
Texas Tower Direct T 
Velveeta T 
Velvet Tongue, The T 
Yellow Brick Road T,S 
Yellow Rose of Texas  T 

Steel Monkey 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 11 pitches, 1100', Grade V
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 509
Submitted By: RKM on Dec 12, 2013

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Description 

Not claiming any first ascent here - just another way of climbing some of the best pitches on Black Velvet Wall in one push. This also lets you pass crowds. We have done the wall twice this way. Once to combine 'best' pitches, and another time to pass parties on both Prince and Turkeys.

These ascents were back in the 80's, just after Yellow Brick Road was put up.

Start on Gobbler and do these three unbelievable pitches up to the big ledge on DOWT.

Climb back left and up to (run out to lessen rope drag) the bolts on Yellow Brick Road and do the two steep pitches of this climb.

Next, move left again (about 10') and do the last two pitches of Prince of Darkness to it's logical top.

From here follow up the last four pitches of DOWT to it's top (eleven or twelve pitches total).

Not sure why people would rap from the top of pitch seven on DOWT and call it climbing the route - but most seem to.

This gives you an eleven or twelve pitch climb, moves from the right to left, and therefore straight up the wall, and combines the best and hardest pitches of four existing routes climbing the entire Black Velvet Wall.

Location 

Start with Gobbler and end on the real top of DOWT.

Protection 

Plenty of draws, a rack of stoppers and a couple of (probably several) mid size friends.


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By Cultivating Mass
Dec 14, 2013

Interesting mix of pitches. I wonder if a couple mid sized friends is what most people will use on pitch 2 of the Gobbler. Sounds like sandbaggery to me. Agree on climbing only first few on Dream being lame sauce if you're claiming an ascent. The first half is just cragging :)
By Cultivating Mass
Dec 23, 2013

Tim Wolfe has been doing some linkups like this in Velvet over the last couple of years. A better name than the one posted might follow Tim's method and be "The Yellow Dark Turkey" or something like that. Either way, you guys are thinking outside the box and that's fun,
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Mar 13, 2014

I thought of this link-up before and wanted to call it "The Velvet Sea." Not saying that I was the first to think of it, but just giving my two cents for a name.