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Steel Monkey 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Brook Sandahl
Season: Whenever it's dry - good
Page Views: 616
Submitted By: jonah on Mar 13, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

A fun, short, steep thin crack near the quarry area. Distinct cruxes on thin fingerlocks and highsteps with good pro on small cams and nuts makes this fun. Up until yesterday (3/12/06), this was a 12a. I pulled off the big jug on the route at the end of the day, though. What's really scary is everybody has been yarding on the thing for years - it's the best hand and foot on the route, and a great spot to place gear. It was a 50 lb. block held in by mud. Wow.

So the crack now awaits a first ascent! Get after it!

Location 

The furthest left route at the Country. Go uphill past Elvis-Nixon, etc. until you are at the start of the quarry. It's the obvious thin crack on the orange, vertical wall with slings on the anchors at the top.

Protection 

Thin cams, especially Metolius #1 TCUs and small nuts.


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By Ryan Triplett
Mar 20, 2006
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

So the route is still .12a, but the process of placing gear is definitely harder and the climbing a bit more sustained. Go do it, a fun bit of climbing.
By Ralph Bodenner
Aug 7, 2006

Not bad as a short clean aid climb.