I love this route, and can't wait to do it again, but I find it hard to beleve that it's really 5.11a. After leading Community Service, a 10a, I feel like Stealin is more like a 10b... I mean, I'm stoked that I led it and all, but I'm not about to call myself an 11 leader. Stealin remains my hardest lead, and I'm stoked about having done it, but it feels easier than 11a to me.
That is all.
By Christian From: Casa do Cacete Feb 13, 2009 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+E3 5c
Damn you, people are always trying to downrate the handful of 11a climbs I've done :-)
Are the following also not 11a?
Steve's Arete - Hunchback Pinnacles You Call It - The Ruins Thunderbolts - Sky Valley Mandatory Doug Testing - Murray Wall, Ravens Myopic - Sun Spot Crags
Not that I'll listen to any of you, I can remain in denial forever... forever I tell ya!
Not sure how anyone can think Stealin is only one letter grade harder than Community service?? Stealin always felt .11a to me. Christian, all the other routes you listed are consensus .11a. So sleep well and don't dwell too much on numbers.
By Christian From: Casa do Cacete Feb 15, 2009 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+E3 5c
I agree that those other routes (the ones I've been on) are 11a, but Stealin' is definitely easier than 11a and you know that because if I can lead it, it must be easier! haha. But seriously, what i've noticed is that people who are better at that style of climbing think it's way easier, and people who excel at other styles of climbing find it more challenging. I could be wrong about this, but it's my theory based on what people tell me about what they think of it. It's a great climb, though, and by far one of my favorites on the mountain- just wish it was longer!
By Christian From: Casa do Cacete Mar 18, 2009 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+E3 5c
Maybe without all the chalk marks it would be 11a? Who knows?
Anyway, if you can lead "Stealin" you can definitely lead the one directly left of it, which is undoubtedly a stellar (though also short) climb. Still stuck hangdogging that one myself.
Dam, who invited Team Downgrade to the party? Luckily it looks like we all agree its worth doing whether you call it a 10 or an 11. Give it a go and see for yourself!
By Charles Vernon From: Tucson, AZ Jan 9, 2014 rating: 5.10+6b+21VII+E3 5b
I did. I think it's 10+ if you move a fair bit right by the 3rd bolt (on obvious chalked holds), which is what I have always done. I also think the unknown route 2 routes left (rated 5.10) is harder than Stealin.