Steal Away 5.11b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.11b [details] |
| FA: | Dave Rone, Kimi Harrison, Leslie Appling: August 6, 1992 |
| Submitted By: | Dave Rone on Jun 9, 2012 |
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Devils Tower National Monument Lifts Current Prairie Falcon Climbing Route Closure MORE INFO >>>
07/01/2012: Because no falcon nesting activity has been observed, the prairie falcon nesting closures currently in effect will be removed on Sunday, July 1, thus opening these areas to normal recreational climbing activities. The areas to be reopened include on the northeast face, routes between and including “Belle Fourche Buttress” and “Maid in the Shaid” (routes #68 to #93), as well as the “North Face” rappel route.
Separate from the falcon closure, Devils Tower National Monument has a voluntary climbing closure in effect for the month of June, out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on climbing closures, please contact the monument’s Chief of Resource Management, Angela Wetz, at (307) 467-5283 ext 212 or Angela_Wetz@nps.gov. For general climbing information please contact the Devils Tower Climbing Office at 307-467-5283, ext. 632.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Steal Away is a bolted face route that starts from the Southwest Buttress, a prominent ledge feature at the south end of the West Face. Climb up a small ramp to the right, and then meander up toward the overhang above. Step right and face climb(crux)past the overhang to a two-bolt anchor.
One can also climb directly through the overhang (bolts) and then traverse back onto the original route. This variation is called The Lander Girls, and is 5.12a.
The route consists of high quality, and somewhat sustained face climbing. Rock quality is very good and the protection is excellent. It was hoped that the route would continue higher but the rock quality deteriorated dramatically.
Location Steal Away is the 3rd crack to the left of the Direct Southwest route. You will see the bolts just to the right of the crack, and the small, right leaning ramp is easy to find.
You must climb a 120', 5.7 crack to the top of the Southwest Buttress to access the route. This crack will require a selection of medium stoppers and medium to large TCU's for gear. There is a two-bolt anchor at the top of this pitch.
Protection Protection is 11 bolts to a two-bolt belay/rappel station. Rappel back to the Southwest Buttress anchors, and then to the Southwest Shoulder.
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