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Sport Land
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Clean Sweep T 
Face Off S 
Generous Donation S 
Hard Times S 
Nick Of Time T 
Sidekick S 
Stayin' Alive S 
Tag Team S 
Toe The Line S 
Total Eclipse S 
Up and Left - Lone Unknown Route S 

Stayin' Alive 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 185'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: P1: Ron Olsen and Nickie Kelly, 6/8/07. P2: Ron Olsen and Bruno Haché, 6/10/07
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 6,810
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jun 11, 2007

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Caolan finishing up the last pitch as the thunder ...

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Description 

Stayin' Alive is another excellent sport route in Sport Land. The first pitch is good, and the second pitch is fabulous -- one of the best moderate 5.10 sport pitches I've done in Boulder Canyon. Don't miss this one when you visit Tonnere!

Start at a 2-bolt belay anchor below the arete right of Face Off. Be careful traversing over to the start; the ledge is exposed.

P1: Angle right to the arete, and climb past a steep section (9) to a stance. Continue up to the top of a small pinnacle. Cross a ledge, climb a steeper headwall, and angle left to the anchor shared with Face Off and Nick Of Time. 5.9, 90', 7 bolts.

P2. The fun begins! Climb a steep face above the anchor, and move right to a prominent "tooth". Don't pull on the tooth; it's delicate and may have to be removed. Traverse right past the tooth to a left-facing corner. Climb the steep corner and exit right to a stance (9). Climb up and right to a V-corner. Stem and layback up the corner to its top (10a). Climb up and left to an airy arete. Climb the arete and traverse right to the anchor. 5.10a, 95', 13 bolts.

Descend via two rappels with a 60m rope.

Location 

On the arete right of Nick Of Time and Face Off.

Protection 

P1: 2-bolt belay anchor at the start, then 7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
P2: 13 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Bring a few longer draws/runners.

Trad climbers can skip some of the bolts and place gear on the route if they so desire.


Photos of Stayin' Alive Slideshow Add Photo
About halfway up the second pitch.
About halfway up the second pitch.

Comments on Stayin' Alive Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 21, 2014
By Bruno Hache
From: Longmont, CO
Jun 30, 2007

The first pitch arete is spectacular, because you are on the arete with lots of air and good climbing. The second pitch is fabulous!
The dihedral crux makes you think, then the easier, undercling arete keeps the pitch very interesting and airy!
A classic at the grade in Boulder Canyon!
By Brenda Leach
Jul 1, 2007

P2 is great! Fun underclings and side pulls with footholds that aren't always obvious. The dihedral requires some thoughtful footwork, too.
By Richard Radcliffe
From: Louisville, CO
Sep 23, 2007

P2 is a nice pitch. However, I'd be very cautious on P1. The 3rd or 4th bolt (second bolt on the pinnacle part of the arete) is attached to a very large block (which you obviously have to climb on and over) and, as far as we could tell, the block is NOT ATTACHED to solid rock. Only gravity seems to be holding it in place. For now....

EDIT: I contacted Ron about this block (9/23/07). He's looking into it and will undoubtedly provide an accurate assessment of the situation.
By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Oct 4, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The second pitch has a nice bolted crack on it... Fun moves though. I don't quite understand why there are 4 bolts after the crack, but whatever.
By Nikolai Daiss-Fechner
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 16, 2008

The second pitch crux is Awesome! Looks a little intimidating but just keep moving. Great route and really well bolted.
By Mark Cushman
From: Cumming, GA
Jun 2, 2008

Second pitch is a blast! Thanks Ron, Bruno and everyone who has worked on Tonnere.
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Aug 9, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great pitch but no harder than the first pitch of Buried Treasure. The link-up of the two is a pretty good outing for sure.
By tooTALLtim
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 16, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

P2: Great pitch, too bad there's lots of bolts in the way. Easily lead with natural, removable gear (except the contrived arete ending).

Bolted finger cracks, has everyone else gone crazy? How has this not been chopped?
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Sep 17, 2009

'..Ya but I wasn't over. Mark it an 8.'

'Smokey, you're entering a World of PAIN.'
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 17, 2009

It's a league game, Smokey.
By Kevin Craig
Jul 16, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

P1 feels a bit contrived but has fun moves and nice position. P2 is fantastic, consistent climbing. I agree that it could mostly be sewn up with gear (might be a bit dicey around the dihedral), but I still enjoyed it as a sport climb (and I'm mostly a traddie). Thanks, guys, for putting this and the other routes up on Tonnere. Cool area with great rock. Hint: make sure you save some energy and hand strength for going back across the Tyrolean.
By Nick Wilder
Site Landlord
From: The Bubble
Jun 15, 2011

One of the best sport climbs at the grade in BC. Great, continuous moves, especially on the second pitch. Perfect view of Boulder Falls the whole way. Would be a stellar trad climb....
By mike h
From: Denver, CO
May 28, 2012

The last pitch is remarkable - as said above, maybe the best easy 10 in the canyon (aside from the questionable bolting). Start on Buried Treasure for a classic 3 pitch sport climb, I thought both pitches of that were better than P1 of Stayin' Alive.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 3, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Haven't yet done the first pitch, but the second pitch is, without a doubt, the very best 5.10a bolted climb I've ever led!!!
By jamandbees
From: Nederland, Colorado
Jul 14, 2013

I climbed the first pitch arete. It was really enjoyable; I'd give it a 5.8 rather than the 5.9 listed here.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Aug 4, 2013

I agree that the 1st pitch is a 5.8, not a 5.9.
By Greg D
From: Here
Apr 26, 2014

People love this climb because it climbs like a fun trad route. Lots of cracks, underclings and sidepulls, all in perfect gear placements. Since mixed routes are common in the area, why not leave this one mixed, too. Way to go.
By Justin Brunson
From: Broomfield CO
May 21, 2014

Linking the two pitches is possible with a 60 but really not recommended.
By Nate Muncy
From: Thornton, CO
May 21, 2014

Agreed with Justin, the rope drag is something fierce.