Stayin' Alive 5.10a
| 5,064 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Sport, 2 pitches, 185 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | P1: Ron Olsen and Nickie Kelly, 6/8/07. P2: Ron Olsen and Bruno Haché, 6/10/07 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Ron Olsen on Jun 11, 2007 |
| |
Caolan finishing up the last pitch as the thunder ...
Add Photo  Printer View
Description Stayin' Alive is another excellent sport route in Sport Land. The first pitch is good, and the second pitch is fabulous -- one of the best moderate 5.10 sport pitches I've done in Boulder Canyon. Don't miss this one when you visit Tonnere!
Start at a 2-bolt belay anchor below the arete right of Face Off. Be careful traversing over to the start; the ledge is exposed.
P1: Angle right to the arete, and climb past a steep section (9) to a stance. Continue up to the top of a small pinnacle. Cross a ledge, climb a steeper headwall, and angle left to the anchor shared with Face Off and Nick Of Time. 5.9, 90', 7 bolts.
P2. The fun begins! Climb a steep face above the anchor, and move right to a prominent "tooth". Don't pull on the tooth; it's delicate and may have to be removed. Traverse right past the tooth to a left-facing corner. Climb the steep corner and exit right to a stance (9). Climb up and right to a V-corner. Stem and layback up the corner to its top (10a). Climb up and left to an airy arete. Climb the arete and traverse right to the anchor. 5.10a, 95', 13 bolts.
Descend via two rappels with a 60m rope.
Location On the arete right of Nick Of Time and Face Off.
Protection P1: 2-bolt belay anchor at the start, then 7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
P2: 13 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Bring a few longer draws/runners.
Trad climbers can skip some of the bolts and place gear on the route if they so desire.
About halfway up the second pitch.
| | |
| Comments on Stayin' Alive |
|
By Bruno Hache
From: Longmont, CO
Jun 30, 2007
| The first pitch arete is spectacular, because you are on the arete with lots of air and good climbing. The second pitch is fabulous!
The dihedral crux makes you think, then the easier, undercling arete keeps the pitch very interesting and airy!
A classic at the grade in Boulder Canyon! |
By Brenda Leach
Jul 1, 2007
| P2 is great! Fun underclings and side pulls with footholds that aren't always obvious. The dihedral requires some thoughtful footwork, too. |
By Richard Radcliffe
From: Louisville, CO
Sep 23, 2007
| P2 is a nice pitch. However, I'd be very cautious on P1. The 3rd or 4th bolt (second bolt on the pinnacle part of the arete) is attached to a very large block (which you obviously have to climb on and over) and, as far as we could tell, the block is NOT ATTACHED to solid rock. Only gravity seems to be holding it in place. For now....
EDIT: I contacted Ron about this block (9/23/07). He's looking into it and will undoubtedly provide an accurate assessment of the situation. |
By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Oct 4, 2007
rating: 5.9
| The second pitch has a nice bolted crack on it... Fun moves though. I don't quite understand why there are 4 bolts after the crack, but whatever. |
By Nikolai Daiss-Fechner
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 16, 2008
| The second pitch crux is Awesome! Looks a little intimidating but just keep moving. Great route and really well bolted. |
By Mark Cushman
From: Cumming, GA
Jun 2, 2008
| Second pitch is a blast! Thanks Ron, Bruno and everyone who has worked on Tonnere. |
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Aug 9, 2009
rating: 5.9
| Great pitch but no harder than the first pitch of Buried Treasure. The link-up of the two is a pretty good outing for sure. |
By tooTALLtim
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 16, 2009
rating: 5.9
| P2: Great pitch, too bad there's lots of bolts in the way. Easily lead with natural, removable gear (except the contrived arete ending).
Bolted finger cracks, has everyone else gone crazy? How has this not been chopped? |
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Sep 17, 2009
| '..Ya but I wasn't over. Mark it an 8.'
'Smokey, you're entering a World of PAIN.' |
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 17, 2009
| It's a league game, Smokey. |
By Kevin Craig
Jul 16, 2010
rating: 5.10a
| P1 feels a bit contrived but has fun moves and nice position. P2 is fantastic, consistent climbing. I agree that it could mostly be sewn up with gear (might be a bit dicey around the dihedral), but I still enjoyed it as a sport climb (and I'm mostly a traddie). Thanks, guys, for putting this and the other routes up on Tonnere. Cool area with great rock. Hint: make sure you save some energy and hand strength for going back across the Tyrolean. |
By Nick Wilder
Site Landlord
From: The Bubble
Jun 15, 2011
| One of the best sport climbs at the grade in BC. Great, continuous moves, especially on the second pitch. Perfect view of Boulder Falls the whole way. Would be a stellar trad climb.... |
By mike h
From: Denver, CO
May 28, 2012
| The last pitch is remarkable - as said above, maybe the best easy 10 in the canyon (aside from the questionable bolting). Start on Buried Treasure for a classic 3 pitch sport climb, I thought both pitches of that were better than P1 of Stayin' Alive. |
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 3, 2012
rating: 5.10a
| Haven't yet done the first pitch, but the second pitch is, without a doubt, the very best 5.10a bolted climb I've ever led!!! |
|
RSS Feed
more...
Slideshow