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 ADVANCED
Roadside Crag (CLOSED)
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Stay the Hand 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type: Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Porter Jarrard, Mark Schussler, 1990
Page Views: 1,818
Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Oct 31, 2006
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Jim working Stay the Hand in very frictiony condit...

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Description 

Sequential climbing on good holds. This would be a 5.10 if it were farther left on the wall where the angle is easier.

More bouldery than endurance dependant.


Location 

Right end of the 5.10 wall (Opposite end from AWOL)


Protection 

Bolts



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By adrenalated
From: Thornton, CO
Sep 5, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Given the same holds and moves, of course it would be 5.10 if it was less overhanging, If it was slabby, it'd be 5.8.
But it is 5.12, and it's a really good route. The crux is basically a 3-bolt, V4 boulder problem, followed by some 5.10 jug hauling and a few moves of 5.11 up higher. Do it.