Stay Hungry  5.10d PG13

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet Consensus:  5.10d [details] FA:  Dan Hare, Scott Woodruff, 1980 Season:  all Submitted By:  Wayne Crill on Mar 13, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

I consider this route quite high quality, it would be popular and reknown at any other crag in the park. Maybe not three of four stars on a global scale, but for H.E.R.'s scrappy lines seems worthy of 3?Approaching the top of H.E.R. - only 30m. from the car for a gimp - Stay Hungry is the obvious right-facing dihedral system just left of Ace of Spades and Inflorescence and 1st left of Self Abuse. The mid-level severely overhanging right-facing corner (2x as big as Self Abuse) is obvious. Climb intricate thin fingers to the 'sustained' roof crack and up the headwall to a "horn" on a left-facing corner slot crack, this cuts off nice climbing above but is about 75' off the deck. I consider this route similar in quality and difficulty to Sidewall on the West Ridge but more sustained and only Jalepeno spicy. Although Sidewall p2 is ultra-classic, overall S.H. feels similar yet a bit better protected in the first half.

Location 

Stay Hungry is located near the top of the Hawk Eagle Ridge. Locate the obvious, right-facing dihedral system just left of Inflorescence and 1st left of Self Abuse. The mid-level, severely overhanging, right-facing corner (2x as big as S.A.) is obvious.

Protection 

Standard rack + doubles <1".

I should add that it's not trivial to get off this route. We left a sling/biner at the 'horn' and this makes a quick and easy exodus, but this cuts the climbing short and although it easily can (and should!) be backed up for top roping, it seems sub-optimal...time will tell, maybe up a little higher than I went a better "permanent anchor" can be made with nuts or the like....