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Staunton Rocks

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Back 40, The 
Bombardier Dome 
Dungeon, The 
Marmot Tower 
Meadow Dome 
Park View Dome 
Ranch Hand, The 
Whistle Pig, The 

Staunton Rocks Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,500'
Location: 39.5165, -105.3978 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 38,302
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Monty, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Mike Morin on Jan 26, 2013
Forecast:
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58° | 41°
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60° | 42°
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61° | 30°
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49° | 28°
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47° | 29°
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50° | 33°
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BETA PHOTO: Staunton Rocks.

Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Staunton Rocks is the first established climbing area visitors come to after leaving the trailhead. The area is 2.1 miles from the trailhead and is accessed via a good trail, with little elevation gain. Formations include: Meadow Dome, The Dungeon, Marmot Tower, The Ranch Hand, Park View Dome, and The Back 40.

Getting There 

From the trailhead off of Upper Elk Creek Rd., hike or bike the Staunton Ranch trail for just under two miles until you come to the Climber Access trail on the right hand side of the trail. The trail at this point is a service road, and the Climber Access trail is an old two track. Follow the Climber Access Trail two-tenths of a mile to the base of the Meadow Dome. From here, the trail leads in various directions to access the different formations that make up Staunton Rocks.

Here is the most up to date trail map. Please stay on trail and don't shortcut switchbacks. A lot of work has been done to manage our impacts.

Rock Climbing Photo: Updated 7/16.
Updated 7/16.

Climbing Season



Weather station 9.1 miles from here

77 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',25],['2 Stars',38],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',10],['5.7',9],['5.8',8],['5.9',10],['5.10',20],['5.11',10],['5.12',8],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Staunton Rocks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Staunton Rocks:
Chicken Dance   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches, 270'   Park View Dome
Maybe the Marmot Ate Your Baby   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Marmot Tower
Coleman Direct   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 55'   Meadow Dome : The Cascades Wall
Harvey   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Meadow Dome : Permission Wall
Reef On It!   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Meadow Dome : Tan Corridor
Turkey Time    5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Meadow Dome : Tan Corridor
Ginger Snap   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Meadow Dome : Tan Corridor
80 Grit   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Meadow Dome : Tan Corridor
Jerry the Gnome   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Meadow Dome : Tan Corridor
Elwood P. Dowd   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Meadow Dome : Permission Wall
The Babe With Power   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   Meadow Dome : The Labyrinth
No Rain   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Meadow Dome : Tan Corridor
The Opportunist   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Meadow Dome : Tan Corridor
No Opportunity Missed   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Meadow Dome : Tan Corridor
Ddong Chim!   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Meadow Dome : Tan Corridor
Tickle My Blossom   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Meadow Dome : Tan Corridor
New Beginnings    5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   The Dungeon
Muricuh   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Meadow Dome : Tan Corridor
Welcome to Staunton   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Meadow Dome : Tan Corridor
Branching Out   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Dungeon
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Staunton Rocks

Featured Route For Staunton Rocks
Rock Climbing Photo: The route. Updated 4/11/2016

New Beginnings 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b  CO : South Platte : ... : The Dungeon
Boulder past 3 bolts, place good pro, clip a 4th bolt, and then plug gear up the featured, overhanging dihedral. When the crack dies, face climb left then climb straight up on jugs. Clip a final bolt, step left and finish. PUMPY!...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Staunton Rocks Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Staunton Rocks from the western end of the climbin...
Staunton Rocks from the western end of the climbin...
Rock Climbing Photo: New Wag Bag Dispenser at Staunton Rocks. Courtesy ...
New Wag Bag Dispenser at Staunton Rocks. Courtesy ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Approach to Climbers Access trail, after you leave...
BETA PHOTO: Approach to Climbers Access trail, after you leave...

Comments on Staunton Rocks Add Comment
Show which comments
By Colin the Wann
Mar 28, 2013
Can't wait to climb there, having grown up just down the road in Indian Hills. Is there somewhere I can find more info until it opens?
By Mike Morin
From: On the Road
Apr 21, 2013
Check out the Fixed Pin Guide to Staunton State Park. It's a good guide to the routes that were established in 2012 at Staunton Rocks.
By Matt Pierce
From: Denver, CO
Aug 26, 2013
Very nice state park and great work being done in here. We recently visited for the first time and only explored a portion of the area, but we saw lots of great routes and lots of potential. Trails are in good shape in most areas. Be aware it is over 2 miles for the approach with lots of bike, kid, and doggy dodging :) Thanks to all who did and continue to develop this area - well done.

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