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Station 13 is a very cool tall and somewhat slender spire (about 150 feet) that is separated from the rest of the Cathedral Spires. It is a good place to scope out other routes because it is a slight distance away. Look for it at the top of the Spire Two-Three gully.
Follow trail #4 to the north from the Cathedral Spires parking lot. When the trail junctions before the spires, do not take the climber's trail off to the right, but rather, continue up the hill to the left of the spires. Go around the back side and look for a tall slender spire that stands alone. While it is near to other rocks, it is definitely solitary at the same time.It has a distinctive chimney on the east face.
5 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Station 13
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Station 13:
East Chimney 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
East Chimney Variation 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Superstition 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Spooky, station 13 SE arete 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Highly Suspicious 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Featured Route For Station 13
Highly Suspicious 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c SD : Custer State Park : ... : Station 13
This route climbs the southwest shoulder of station 13. Begin using the handcrack of Spooky, at twenty five feet gain a flake and rail to clip the first bolt. A refrigerator squeezing crux is encountered between this and the second bolt. Continue up following more bolts to a very balancy crux with a hard clip at the seventh bolt. The climbing here is exposed and unique with step throughs and side pulls! Keep on with the bolt line encountering another crux at the tenth bolt. Big moves take you to...[more] Browse More Classics in SD