Static Cling 5.11a/b
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11- [details] |
| FA: | Jim Beyer, Pat McInerney, February 1990 |
| Submitted By: | Matthew Seymour on Apr 1, 2007 |
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Uknown belayer at the base of Static Cling. Fanta...
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Description Climb the thin crack system and pull up under the roof utilizing some side pulls (crux). Pull the roof (2nd crux) and continue to anchors on the right wall. The moves are aesthetic, and you can find some great rests, a great route. Although it certainly won't compare to longer classic routes, it is definitely one of the best on wall street.
Location This route is located about 50 feet right of Top Forty in a highly chalked left facing dihedral with a thin crack system, and a roof about 2/3 of the way up. There is a chalked up flake to the left that leads to the same anchors, Potash Bong Hit, a top rope climb.
Protection A set of camalots to a number 3, small pieces (tcu's) are helpful, and a set of nuts. Draws to extend pieces below the roof.
BETA PHOTO: Static Cling
| Moving through the crux below the roof
| Lisa Gillest working the thin finger lieback
| Mike Keegan nearing the roof, GoPro fish eye view
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By Greg D From: Here Feb 10, 2008 rating: 5.11a
| This is a quality climb and can be climbed in the rain (see photo) as well as Potash Bong Hit(5.9) which starts just 15 feet left and shares the same achors as Static Cling. Potash Bong Hit is worth doing and protects fairly well even though some guide books call it a top rope. See Potash Bong Hit on this website for more details. |
By BenCooper From: Olympia, WA May 28, 2009
| For me, the key gear were a #0 and #00 TCU (purple + grey). These can protect the crux moves below and through the small roof. |
By Clay Rardon From: Morgantown, WV Mar 31, 2010 rating: 5.11
| excellent varied climb. easy to protect. Highly Recommended for the 5.11a leader. place a directional below the roof if you're going to TR. HAVE FUN! |
By Kevin Gillest From: Arvada, CO Oct 6, 2011 rating: 5.11-
| Great route, not to be missed on Wall Street. Good gear, great movement. |
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