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Stately Pleasure Dome

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Angel T 
Boltway T 
Death Crack T 
Dixie Peach T 
Eunuch T 
Footnote T 
Great White Book T 
Hermaphrodite Flake T 
Shadow Nose T 
South Crack T 
Sweet Nothings T 
Table of Contents T 
Turning Japanese T 
West Country T 

Stately Pleasure Dome  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.8353, -119.46 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 79,184
Administrators: M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nick Wilder on Jun 23, 2006
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Stately Pleasure Dome on an October afternoon.

Description 

Okay, so it's on the highway and tons of tourists will gawk at you, but still, this is one of the most beautiful climbing settings anywhere. It rises about 500 feet right out of Lake Tenaya with beautiful views of the lake, Tenaya Peak, and many other Tuolumne features.

Getting There 

It's the great big dome on the north side of the highway next to Tenaya Lake. Easy parking all along the base.

To descend all routes: head up and left (west) until you can descend 3rd and 4th class slabs near a steep headwall. At one point you can rap a tree over the steepest section, though probably 50% of climbers just walk this part too. See photo.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.2 miles from here

14 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',3],['5.8',3],['5.9',1],['5.10',4],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Stately Pleasure Dome:
Great White Book   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 450'   
Eunuch   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 250'   
West Country   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 400'   
Boltway   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 300'   
Hermaphrodite Flake   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 400'   
South Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600'   
Dixie Peach   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches   
Table of Contents   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 400'   
Black Angel   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 65'   
Death Crack   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Classics in Stately Pleasure Dome

Featured Route For Stately Pleasure Dome
Megan leading pitch 2

West Country 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Stately Pleasure Dome
P1. From the nice ledge at the start, go straight up (same as Hermaphrodite Flake), heading left just where the flake starts. Belay just a little higher.P2. This is the crux pitch and the most fun. 5.6-5.7 sustained lieback/finger crack climbing for almost 100 feet to a two bolt anchor. Good pro most of the way. Great.P3. Slightly runout face climbing past a few bolts to a two bolt anchor.P4. More fun liebacking. The angle is much lower here, but placing pro is slightly awkward. Set up a ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Stately Pleasure Dome Slideshow Add Photo
Q: On a day like this, do you prefer to climb or take pictures? <br /> <br />A: Yes <br /> <br />September 2011 <br />
Q: On a day like this, do you prefer to climb or t...
Descent down Stately Pleasure Dome
BETA PHOTO: Descent down Stately Pleasure Dome
Stately Pleasure Dome, Tenaya Lake. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Stately Pleasure Dome, Tenaya Lake.
Photo by Blitz...
Stately Pleasure Dome, east side
BETA PHOTO: Stately Pleasure Dome, east side
Kurt Smith on an attempt at "Top Gun", 1985. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Kurt Smith on an attempt at "Top Gun", 1985.
Photo...
Bath under the S. P. Dome
Bath under the S. P. Dome
Stately Pleasure Dome from Tenaya Lake.
Stately Pleasure Dome from Tenaya Lake.
Jonny on the friction slab descent of the SPD. <br /> <br />6/10/08
Jonny on the friction slab descent of the SPD.

6/...
Midway up the dome, down to Tenaya Lake
Midway up the dome, down to Tenaya Lake
stately pleasure dome and harlequin dome at sunrise
stately pleasure dome and harlequin dome at sunris...
Moving up the finger crack
Moving up the finger crack
Foolish Pleasures 5.11a (PG/R)
Foolish Pleasures 5.11a (PG/R)
Routes facing the lake
BETA PHOTO: Routes facing the lake
Erica descends the slabs on Stately Pleasure Dome. 7/2012. <br /> <br />Photo: Corey Gargano
Erica descends the slabs on Stately Pleasure Dome....
Amazing views to be had from atop Stately Pleasure Dome.  <br /> <br />Looking down at Tenaya Lake 6/10/08 <br /> <br />
Amazing views to be had from atop Stately Pleasure...

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By C Miller
Administrator
Sep 28, 2006
The name comes from the poem Kubla Khan by Samuel Taylor Coleridge.