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Stately Pleasure Dome

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arch Rival T 
Black Angel T 
Boltway T 
Cross Reference T 
Daddy's Little Girl T 
Death Crack T 
Dixie Peach T 
Eunuch T 
Footnote T 
Get Slick T 
Great White Book T 
Hermaphrodite Flake T 
Mosquito T 
Shadow Nose T 
South Crack T 
Sweet Nothings T 
Table of Contents T 
Turning Japanese T 
Way We Were, The T 
West Country T 
White Flake T 

Stately Pleasure Dome Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.8353, -119.46 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 31,431
Administrators: M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nick Wilder on Jun 23, 2006
Forecast:
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I found the descent on this dome intimidating, as ...

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Description 

Okay, so it's on the highway and tons of tourists will gawk at you, but still, this is one of the most beautiful climbing settings anywhere. It rises about 500 feet right out of Lake Tenaya with beautiful views of the lake, Tenaya Peak, and many other Tuolumne features.

Getting There 

It's the great big dome on the north side of the highway next to Tenaya Lake. Easy parking all along the base.

To descend all routes: head up and left (west) until you can descend 3rd and 4th class slabs near a steep headwall. At one point you can rap a tree over the steepest section, though probably 50% of climbers just walk this part too. See photo.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.2 miles from here

21 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',6],['5.8',2],['5.9',1],['5.10',7],['5.11',4],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Stately Pleasure Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Stately Pleasure Dome:
Great White Book   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 450'   
West Country   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 400'   
Hermaphrodite Flake   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 400'   
Eunuch   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 250'   
White Flake   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, Alpine, 460'   
South Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600'   
Boltway   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 300'   
Table of Contents   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 400'   
Black Angel   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 65'   
Cross Reference   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 280'   
Death Crack   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Stately Pleasure Dome

Featured Route For Stately Pleasure Dome
Rock Climbing Photo: Megan leading pitch 2

West Country 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Stately Pleasure Dome
P1. From the nice ledge at the start, go straight up (same as Hermaphrodite Flake), heading left just where the flake starts. Belay just a little higher.P2. This is the crux pitch and the most fun. 5.6-5.7 sustained lieback/finger crack climbing for almost 100 feet to a two bolt anchor. Good pro most of the way. Great.P3. Slightly runout face climbing past a few bolts to a two bolt anchor.P4. More fun liebacking. The angle is much lower here, but placing pro is slightly awkward. Set up a ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Stately Pleasure Dome Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Stately Pleasure Dome on an October afternoon.
Stately Pleasure Dome on an October afternoon.
Rock Climbing Photo: Q: On a day like this, do you prefer to climb or t...
Q: On a day like this, do you prefer to climb or t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Stately Pleasure Dome, Tenaya Lake. Photo by Blitz...
Stately Pleasure Dome, Tenaya Lake. Photo by Blitz...
Rock Climbing Photo: stately pleasure dome and harlequin dome at sunris...
stately pleasure dome and harlequin dome at sunris...
Rock Climbing Photo: Erica descends the slabs on Stately Pleasure Dome....
Erica descends the slabs on Stately Pleasure Dome....
Rock Climbing Photo: Descent down Stately Pleasure Dome
BETA PHOTO: Descent down Stately Pleasure Dome
Rock Climbing Photo: Routes facing the lake
BETA PHOTO: Routes facing the lake
Rock Climbing Photo: Midway up the dome, down to Tenaya Lake
Midway up the dome, down to Tenaya Lake
Rock Climbing Photo: Jonny on the friction slab descent of the SPD.  6/...
Jonny on the friction slab descent of the SPD. 6/...
Rock Climbing Photo: Stately Pleasure Dome from Tenaya Lake.
Stately Pleasure Dome from Tenaya Lake.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kurt Smith on an attempt at "Top Gun", 1...
Kurt Smith on an attempt at "Top Gun", 1...
Rock Climbing Photo: Foolish Pleasures 5.11a (PG/R)
Foolish Pleasures 5.11a (PG/R)
Rock Climbing Photo: Stately Pleasure Dome, east side ©
BETA PHOTO: Stately Pleasure Dome, east side ©
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving up the finger crack
Moving up the finger crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Amazing views to be had from atop Stately Pleasure...
Amazing views to be had from atop Stately Pleasure...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rapping from tree on descent - sunset on half dome...
Rapping from tree on descent - sunset on half dome...
Rock Climbing Photo: hiking down the descent
hiking down the descent
Rock Climbing Photo: Bath under the S. P. Dome
Bath under the S. P. Dome

Comments on Stately Pleasure Dome Add Comment
Show which comments
By C Miller
Administrator
Sep 28, 2006
The name comes from the poem Kubla Khan by Samuel Taylor Coleridge.
By Richard O'Neal
From: Lancaster, Ca
Jun 27, 2016
In lieu of the normal decent, we tried the allegedly easier "walk off" around the west side. There were rock stackings for trail markers. However, it seemed just as sketchy as the normal decent and took much longer.

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