Stately Pleasure Dome on an October afternoon.
Okay, so it's on the highway and tons of tourists will gawk at you, but still, this is one of the most beautiful climbing settings anywhere. It rises about 500 feet right out of Lake Tenaya with beautiful views of the lake, Tenaya Peak, and many other Tuolumne features.
It's the great big dome on the north side of the highway next to Tenaya Lake. Easy parking all along the base.
To descend all routes: head up and left (west) until you can descend 3rd and 4th class slabs near a steep headwall. At one point you can rap a tree over the steepest section, though probably 50% of climbers just walk this part too. See photo.
Weather station 8.2 miles from here
14 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Stately Pleasure Dome
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Stately Pleasure Dome:
Eunuch 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
R Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 250'
West Country 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 400'
Boltway 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 300'
South Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
R Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600'
Dixie Peach 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
PG13 Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches
Black Angel 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 65'
Death Crack 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 70'
Featured Route For Stately Pleasure Dome
West Country 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b CA
: Yosemite National Park
: ... : Stately Pleasure Dome
P1. From the nice ledge at the start, go straight up (same as Hermaphrodite Flake), heading left just where the flake starts. Belay just a little higher.P2. This is the crux pitch and the most fun. 5.6-5.7 sustained lieback/finger crack climbing for almost 100 feet to a two bolt anchor. Good pro most of the way. Great.P3. Slightly runout face climbing past a few bolts to a two bolt anchor.P4. More fun liebacking. The angle is much lower here, but placing pro is slightly awkward. Set up a ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Local Information for Stately Pleasure Dome
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Q: On a day like this, do you prefer to climb or t...
BETA PHOTO: Descent down Stately Pleasure Dome
Stately Pleasure Dome, Tenaya Lake.
Photo by Blitz...
BETA PHOTO: Stately Pleasure Dome, east side ©
Kurt Smith on an attempt at "Top Gun", 1985.
Bath under the S. P. Dome
Stately Pleasure Dome from Tenaya Lake.
Jonny on the friction slab descent of the SPD.
Midway up the dome, down to Tenaya Lake
stately pleasure dome and harlequin dome at sunris...
Moving up the finger crack
Foolish Pleasures 5.11a (PG/R)
BETA PHOTO: Routes facing the lake
Erica descends the slabs on Stately Pleasure Dome....
Amazing views to be had from atop Stately Pleasure...
By C Miller
Sep 28, 2006
The name comes from the poem Kubla Khan by Samuel Taylor Coleridge.