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 ADVANCED
Big Cliffs
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Burrsitus T 
Coordinate Covalent Bonding S 
Frodo Lives S 
Rastafaria T,TR 
State of the Artless (The Open Book) S 

State of the Artless (The Open Book) 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Coburn
Page Views: 277
Submitted By: jhump on Jun 21, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Nice, slippery dihedral on the left side of the Big Cliff. Make a few face moves to gain the Book. Then smear the "pimple" and layback or stem to a good rest. Some more steep face moves gain the anchor.


Location 

On the left side of the Big Cliff, right of "Beam me up Scotty."


Protection 

Handful of draws.



Comments on State of the Artless (The Open Book) Add Comment
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By Sean Cobourn
From: Gramling, SC
Sep 10, 2009

actually called State of the Artless.
I did FA in late 80's I would guess. Todd McCormick almost had it but fell and suffered a compression fracture in his spine as a result.

By jhump
Jan 3, 2010

Yes, sorry about that. I have your old guidebook somewhere. I could not remember the name and I do recall that everyone called it the "Open Book." I grew up around there. Logtown was home crag for several years. I will never forget my father working and finally climbing this route. Many a climber has learned to use their feet on this one. A fine route. I forgot the story of Todd's fall and injuries. Old Dave told me that one. Modern gear took the sting out of a trad lead of this one, but it was still a trip, smearing past the nest of small gear.

By BrianCarson
From: Redlands, CA
Mar 8, 2013

I believe that Richard Rice had the FFA back in the 90s