State of the Artless (The Open Book) 5.10
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.10c/d [details] |
| FA: | Coburn |
| Submitted By: | jhump on Jun 21, 2009 |
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Description Nice, slippery dihedral on the left side of the Big Cliff. Make a few face moves to gain the Book. Then smear the "pimple" and layback or stem to a good rest. Some more steep face moves gain the anchor.
Location On the left side of the Big Cliff, right of "Beam me up Scotty."
Protection Handful of draws.
| Comments on State of the Artless (The Open Book) |
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By Sean Cobourn
From: Gramling, SC
Sep 10, 2009
| actually called State of the Artless.
I did FA in late 80's I would guess. Todd McCormick almost had it but fell and suffered a compression fracture in his spine as a result. |
By jhump
Jan 3, 2010
| Yes, sorry about that. I have your old guidebook somewhere. I could not remember the name and I do recall that everyone called it the "Open Book." I grew up around there. Logtown was home crag for several years. I will never forget my father working and finally climbing this route. Many a climber has learned to use their feet on this one. A fine route. I forgot the story of Todd's fall and injuries. Old Dave told me that one. Modern gear took the sting out of a trad lead of this one, but it was still a trip, smearing past the nest of small gear. |
By BrianCarson
From: Redlands, CA
Mar 8, 2013
| I believe that Richard Rice had the FFA back in the 90s |
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