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Starved Rock Ice 2013/14
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By Juggler
Jan 11, 2014
Ice at SR

Woodchuck ATC wrote:
NOTE: It's been raining very hard, lots of run off, plenty of snow melt and damage to ice falls is certain. PLEASE THINK BEFORE YOU CHOOSE TO CLIMB THIS WEEKEND AT THE PARK. Someone knocked down Tonti's lower thin section last week, and it would be very sad to have more ice or other canyons damaged this wet warm weekend. IF you can, put off your trip until it freezes back up thick and sturdy again,after the next cold spell. Last we saw, several groups sounded like they were headed out Saturday. Alternative for the day? Contact Juggler and come out to climb Sunday on the ice silo in south suburbs. Advantages: It's an hour closer to Chicago, we LOVE to beat the hell out of it, we knock stuff down, we damage all the ice we want. Why? Because we can REBUILD it back up with just 3 freezing days/ nights in mid teens. We don't have running water coming down on our heads like the meltdown in the canyons. We don't risk damaging an outdoor natural formation for weeks. Waiting for nature to come along and rebuild a canyon could take forever with the luck we've had at SRSP for the last 3 years. Let it GROW!! We control OUR little environment here; water on, water off at our discression with freezing temps. Got frostbite and cold toes? Our warming hut is 10 steps from the ice falls, with a view out the window to watch climbers. Hot water available for making drinks. BYOB if needed. Think about it,,,sorry for posting this so late on Friday night but hope a few catch the message and give it some thought.



Climbing at 1 PM Sat(tomorrow) and evening at the silo


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By Gokul
Jan 11, 2014
At the "summit"

Not climbable this weekend. SRSP is going to need at least a couple of cold weeks to heal.


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By Juggler
Jan 12, 2014
Ice at SR

Gokul wrote:
Not climbable this weekend. SRSP is going to need at least a couple of cold weeks to heal.


Good to see you at the silo today!


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By AJ O.
From Chicago
Jan 12, 2014
Ro Shampo (Red River Gorge)

I was out at the park yesterday to see the damage from the warm weather we had. I walked to two canyons, Tonty and Ottawa. The water in Tonty was raging over the lip. There was no ice left except that on the upper ramp. It could be a while for this to form again. Ottawa was in better condition. It was half waterfall and half climbable icefall. It was still pretty fat and appeared structurally sound. I was able to get a few pitches in on Ottawa so the drive ended up being worth it. I didn't hear anything about Wildcat, but if Tonty was in bad condition I'm sure the same happened to Wildcat. Hopefully, we get some cold weather to rebuild the damage.

Ottawa (1/11/14)
Ottawa (1/11/14)


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By Woodchuck ATC
Jan 12, 2014
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

I always hated the 'swim' over to get on the ice of Ottowa when it got running wet. Nice shot, do agree that the taller thinner Wildcat probably got massive damage and don't expect either it or Tonti to be ready again soon.


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By AJ O.
From Chicago
Jan 13, 2014
Ro Shampo (Red River Gorge)


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By Juggler
Jan 14, 2014
Ice at SR

See the update post from SRSP here:

mountainproject.com/v/starved-rock-state-park-ice-climbing/1>>>


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By Juggler
Jan 14, 2014
Ice at SR


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By Woodchuck ATC
Jan 16, 2014
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

Went for a recon hike today to see the ice. Wildcat has a crack at top, but is still standing firm. Ottowa is good too, I was told. Talked with site supt. about access and ice futures, he is open to discussion and very ice friendly. A very good sign! We are not allowed into French Canyon at all this season, not on any formation in any part of the total canyon or side flows. Only 5 formations in 4 canyons are open for climbing, and only ice in 2 or 3 of them right now. Pic is of Wildcat today, the 16th.

wildcat is looking good.
wildcat is looking good.


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By Juggler
Jan 16, 2014
Ice at SR

ooops, I bumped a thread(this one) that has a duplicate in the Ice Climbing forum.... how terrible.....


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By AJ O.
From Chicago
Jan 16, 2014
Ro Shampo (Red River Gorge)

Awesome! Thanks for the recon hike Woodchuck. I had my doubts if anything would be climbable this weekend, but this picture squashes any doubt. I'm going to head out there on Monday. One more warmup round before the ice fest. I will try to check on the other canyons while I'm out there.


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By Juggler
Jan 16, 2014
Ice at SR

AJ O. wrote:
Awesome! Thanks for the recon hike Woodchuck. I had my doubts if anything would be climbable this weekend, but this picture squashes any doubt. I'm going to head out there on Monday. One more warmup round before the ice fest. I will try to check on the other canyons while I'm out there.


Don't forget, a group of us is going to Wyalusing in WI next wknd. 1/24-26. Let us know if anyone wants to tag along and we will get you costs for sharing the drive and lodging in the log cabin with hot tub.....

I am also looking to get to SRSP during the week next week, maybe Tues. or Wed. Partner?


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By Woodchuck ATC
Jan 17, 2014
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

who's up for 5 below zero fracturing ice dinner plates on your face for Tuesday? It's gonna be wicked cold Tues-Wed for sure, and much much colder in canyon than the weather man says . Be aware, that ice is not much fun when that brittle at SRSP.


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By Juggler
Jan 17, 2014
Ice at SR

Woodchuck ATC wrote:
who's up for 5 below zero fracturing ice dinner plates on your face for Tuesday? It's gonna be wicked cold Tues-Wed for sure, and much much colder in canyon than the weather man says . Be aware, that ice is not much fun when that brittle at SRSP.



Yep, will have to wait and see what temps bring us. Silo Wed. Night for chili Cook....


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By Francesco
Jan 25, 2014

Hi guys,

I've been living in Chicago for a year and a half and I was just waiting for this cold to come! :)
I spent many weekends at the Silo at Frankfort and went to the Ice Festival in Michigan last year, but never managed to go to Starved Rock. Since I don't know any ice climber in Chicago, I thought this could be a good place to start.

I've been rock climbing for many years and started ice climbing a few years ago.

I don't know if any of you went there recently, but from the website the situation looks great: www.starvedrockstatepark.org/ice-climbing-news/

I hope someone will get back to me! :)

Thank you! Cheers!

Francesco


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By Juggler
Jan 27, 2014
Ice at SR

Francesco wrote:
Hi guys, I've been living in Chicago for a year and a half and I was just waiting for this cold to come! :) I spent many weekends at the Silo at Frankfort and went to the Ice Festival in Michigan last year, but never managed to go to Starved Rock. Since I don't know any ice climber in Chicago, I thought this could be a good place to start. I've been rock climbing for many years and started ice climbing a few years ago. I don't know if any of you went there recently, but from the website the situation looks great: www.starvedrockstatepark.org/ice-climbing-news/ I hope someone will get back to me! :) Thank you! Cheers! Francesco



Just PM'd you about next week. LMK


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By Woodchuck ATC
Jan 27, 2014
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

Somebody on Ottowa ice this past weekend sent in 2 pics to Tammy Souza who used them on her weather broadcast this AM. Looked in pretty good shape yet. ( Tammy too, not just the ice!)..


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By Juggler
Jan 27, 2014
Ice at SR

Woodchuck ATC wrote:
Somebody on Ottawa ice this past weekend sent in 2 pics to Tammy Souza who used them on her weather broadcast this AM. Looked in pretty good shape yet. ( Tammy too, not just the ice!)..


It looked like LaSalle to me..... too short and wide to be Ottawa, plus the extra little ice forming to the right that I remember when I was there recently...


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By Woodchuck ATC
Jan 31, 2014
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

Been a great week or more of ice building. Anybody been down to SRSP this mid week to climb? Fill us in on details and an updated report on conditions anytime.


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By ZoeyG
From Evanston, IL
Feb 2, 2014
Me.

Wildcat and LaSalle, Feb. 1

Wildcat
Wildcat




LaSalle
LaSalle


The right side of LaSalle had water running inside.


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By Woodchuck ATC
Feb 2, 2014
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

Nice to see Wildcat back in soo fat again. This could be a great winter of ice from this point on, since cold and much more snow is coming in for next 10 days. Latest I've ever climbed ice there was into early April on a late meltdown year.


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By Michael E.
From Fort Collins, CO
Feb 2, 2014

Can you only TR at Starved Rock?


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By Woodchuck ATC
Feb 2, 2014
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

No,,leads are OK, just use wise judgement on conditions. A guy posted at climbingcentral.com of his leads at Tonti canyon lately. It's just that the ice usually is so full of holes and weak at start of season,,sometimes all season Then it doesn't take screws very safely until fully filled in and formed. Sounds like we are in for a great winter finally, with solid ice for leads on the limited canyons we now are left with for climbing. Pic is of an early lead of Ottowa Canyon from back in the early 80's,,,when all gear was scary stuff!

leading Ottowa Canyon ice
leading Ottowa Canyon ice


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By Juggler
Feb 10, 2014
Ice at SR

Wildcat today--- Brisk but great climbing


Wildkitty
Wildkitty




hdslnkdh9yauycz
hdslnkdh9yauycz


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By Woodchuck ATC
Feb 11, 2014
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

Finally a year with great ice again, but alas no time, no energy or money to make the trips out there this season.


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