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Starved Rock Ice 2013/14
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By AJ O.
From Chicago
Dec 30, 2013
Ro Shampo (Red River Gorge)

A friend of mine was hiking the Starved Rock canyons on Saturday 12/28/13. He took some pictures and it appears the ice is coming in. From the images it looks very thin, but the situation is promising nonetheless.

Today (12/30/13) I called the park and spoke to a ranger, he confirmed that ice climbing in the park is officially open for the season, but that a lot of the canyons are thin and not touching down yet. He also emphasized that climbing is done at your own risk and it is up to the climber, not the park, to assess the safety of the ice.

So, I'm starting this thread for the 2014 Starved Rock ice season. Feel free to post updates and/or pictures of ice in the park. We've been unlucky the last few years at Starved Rock. I think this year our luck could change.

Unknown Canyon
Unknown Canyon


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By AJ O.
From Chicago
Jan 3, 2014
Ro Shampo (Red River Gorge)

An update via the park website:

www.starvedrocklodge.com/new-rules-ice-climbers-year-starved>>>


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By jon jugenheimer
From Madison
Jan 3, 2014
hi

Thanks AJ O. Please keep us all posted on the progress. Haven't climbed there in a few years and itching to get back.


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By Juggler
Jan 4, 2014
Ice at SR

Setting up French Canyon today at SRSP


French
French


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By Woodchuck ATC
Jan 4, 2014
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

AJ O. wrote:
A friend of mine was hiking the Starved Rock canyons on Saturday 12/28/13. He took some pictures and it appears the ice is coming in. From the images it looks very thin, but the situation is promising nonetheless. Today (12/30/13) I called the park and spoke to a ranger, he confirmed that ice climbing in the park is officially open for the season, but that a lot of the canyons are thin and not touching down yet. He also emphasized that climbing is done at your own risk and it is up to the climber, not the park, to assess the safety of the ice. So, I'm starting this thread for the 2014 Starved Rock ice season. Feel free to post updates and/or pictures of ice in the park. We've been unlucky the last few years at Starved Rock. I think this year our luck could change.



Very good to hear,,,especially that WE, the climber, finally again get to rate the climbable conditions of the ice, not the park. Many many a season we missed great ice because they didn't see it's quality the way we see it, and it stayed 'closed', missing great climbs. Gone are the days of climbing into April, that's for sure. Your mystery canyon is Ottowa, one of the last 5 they allow us to climb in. Tonti, LaSalle, Ottowa, French and Wildcat.IF they still allow LaSalle, that is, as I've not bothered to go there in decades. Sure miss Hennepin, ALL of the many formations in Illinois Canyon, Pontiac, Aurora, Kickapoo, Sac, and other nameless ice smears that would form back in the 80's in the 'ice age' of Starved Rock.


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By AJ O.
From Chicago
Jan 4, 2014
Ro Shampo (Red River Gorge)

I was out there today with a friend. The ice is climbable in lasalle, tonty, French, and wildcat. The temps were a bit high so everything was dripping but the drive was definitely worth it. Sunder will be posting pictures and more info about what areas are open for climbing.


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By sunder
From Alsip, Il
Jan 4, 2014
ICE PIT 2011

Tonti - a little wet

Tonti thin at the bottom
Tonti thin at the bottom


LaSalle
LaSalle
LaSalle


French
French
French


Wildcat - climable but get ready for a shower
Wildcat. Thin wet and claimable early in the season
Wildcat. Thin wet and claimable early in the season


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By sunder
From Alsip, Il
Jan 4, 2014
ICE PIT 2011

Rules

EDIT:

Ottawa - ALLOWED
French Canyon - OFF LIMITS


Starvard Rock Rules
Starvard Rock Rules


Starvard Rock Disclaimer
Starvard Rock Disclaimer


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By Juggler
Jan 4, 2014
Ice at SR

sunder wrote:
Rules


GOOD! at least they will leave us alone! Yeah!


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By Juggler
Jan 6, 2014
Ice at SR

CONDITION REPORT:

This is what Ottawa looked like yesterday- Sunday.

LaSalle Canyon was also in very nicely and Wildcat is good but wet.

French is also in...


Ottawa
Ottawa


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By Juggler
Jan 6, 2014
Ice at SR

Anyone up for joining us to climb this Wed. Jan. 8th at SR? Plan to be there by about 8 or 9 AM. LMK

PM me for more details..... if you are in(or can get to) the South burbs, we can car pool....

This is our day Jan. 8th! (sorry for poor quality from my phone)


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By jon jugenheimer
From Madison
Jan 7, 2014
hi

Is "The Fang" in?


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By Woodchuck ATC
Jan 7, 2014
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

From the pic of main ice of Tonti, as thin as it is,,I would doubt if the big tall 'Fang is in yet this season. Probably coming down nice, but doubt if it has met up even. Usually much slower to form than the main ice. Big falls are often 15-20 ft wide before the Fang is even body width at the middle section. Anybody get pics? Maybe Juggler will get to several canyons tomorrow to take updated pics to share.


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By Juggler
Jan 7, 2014
Ice at SR

Woodchuck ATC wrote:
Nice, BUT notice Ottowa is NOT on the posted rules /open list that is shown. There has been no upper toprope access to Ottawa for years, (before the 3 bad no-ice winters), and that is since they tore out the stairs and closed all the upper hiking access trails. No toprope, means most climbs done there IF any, legally, in last decade have been by lead. Now left off the list, it seems they don't intend to allow even leads in Ottawa if it didn't make the list. Someone closer by with the contacts, please find out and post up. Since the inception of ice first legally approved in Feb. 1980, I've done my 33 years of recon drives 180 miles round trip twice a week all winter long, reporting conditions, hiking in, posting pics, and setting up routes. I'm done, not able to do that job anymore.


The access up the left side is not really that bad. top is great with many anchors. I will stop into the ranger office when we are there tomorrow. Thanks for the info. Was Ottawa on the list back originally?


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By Gokul
Jan 8, 2014
At the "summit"

Anyone climbing here this weekend? I will be in the area Sat and Sun morning.


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By jon jugenheimer
From Madison
Jan 8, 2014
hi

Gokul, there is a Madison group headed down Sunday. We are all meeting up at 730am at Badger Bowl and then carpooling down. Plan on climbing all day with a large group. You are always more than welcome to join.


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By AJ O.
From Chicago
Jan 8, 2014
Ro Shampo (Red River Gorge)

Gokul, I am headed down with one other person Saturday morning. We will likely be in the parking lot before 8. Hoping to hit the ice early since the weather will be quite warm. I got pretty soaked last weekend climbing tonty and it was in the low 30s.


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By Woodchuck ATC
Jan 8, 2014
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

Nothing was more fun back in the 80's big ice era,than the heavy wet spring meltout. We would climb up through torrents of water that would drive you right off the ice except for your tools in tight. That's what Goretex is for! Some awesome climbs back then, sure miss those historic days climbing any and every canyon we wanted to.


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By Tradoholic
Jan 8, 2014

NOT TO BE MISSED! GET IT WHILE THE GETTN' IS GOOD!


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By Jeremy Stocks
From Golden, CO
Jan 9, 2014
.

Glad to hear/see that Wildcat came in this year!


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By Juggler
Jan 9, 2014
Ice at SR

Jeremy Stocks wrote:
Glad to hear/see that Wildcat came in this year!


Wildcat was in last year on March 9th, 2013- we climbing it.... Very nice is was


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By Juggler
Jan 9, 2014
Ice at SR

Woodchuck ATC wrote:
Juggler got out there Wed, and said it was OK, except it looks like someone vandalized Tonti canyon ice and broke down the mid connection section totally. Plenty of precip headed our way this weekend, and maybe some nice freezing nights. Don't forget folks, those deep canyons in the shade stay well over 10 degrees colder than up on the rim. I was camped at SRSP back in mid 80s' for the coldest official Chicago temps of minus 26. Wet non Gortex shell froze solid and stood up on its own down there one day. Even when days got to near zero, the canyons were often fifteen below yet through the mornings. So there could be plenty of freezing yet this coming week of low to mid 30's they predict. Get in some good climbs before heading up to Peabody Ice Fest on 25th, Muensing on 31st.


most all were dripping wet, heads up...


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By Juggler
Jan 9, 2014
Ice at SR

sunder wrote:
Rules


We spoke the Mark M.(park head) at the park and this list is wrong.... French is closed and Ottawa is open, FYI


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By Gokul
Jan 9, 2014
At the "summit"

Looks like there'll be a bunch of people out there this weekend. Sweet! See you folks at the ice.


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By Woodchuck ATC
Jan 9, 2014
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

0.75 or more of rain predicted for late Friday into Sat. Plan on being wet. Wonder if the new park supt. has any objection to climbing in the rain or when water is running off the ice? Better yet, just don't go. Read my post below just put up at 10:30 Friday night.


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By Juggler
Jan 9, 2014
Ice at SR

PLEASE MAKE SURE EVERYONE SIGNS IN. THE PARK HAD REPORTS OF CLIMBERS NOT SIGNING IN LAST WEEKEND. ALSO CLIMBERS IN ST. LOUIS CANYON, WHICH IS OFF LIMITS.

Thanks


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