|The Trad Lands
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This route tackles the buttress just right of "X It". The crux is a boulder problem right off the ground past the first bolt, with a unique flange pinch for the left hand. Once you are standing on the flange, you can move left and up along cracks, flakes, and face to a big ledge. Clip the last bolt on "X It", but climb holds to the right to a shared anchor at the top of the wall.
5 bolts to a two bolt anchor with rings.
BETA PHOTO: Startled
Bill Hazell powers through the crux of Startled, ~...
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jan 10, 2002
Giving this route a 10a rating is quite generous.
|By Buff Johnson|
Aug 26, 2006
Bypassing the crux by stemming right then moving up & left to the second bolt, makes this a fun 5.8, you could take a couple of 1-1.5" cams & hand sized 2.5-3" if you wanted to practice some trad in between the bolts.
|By Julius Beres|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 29, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
The rating on this is way off. 10a?! I went there last night and lead it without knowing the rating. It took me a while to find it on here because I was searching for a 5.8. This one is easier than X It which is the 9 next to it (and even that is a one move climb to perhaps make it a 9)
Maybe I bypassed the crux as the other comment suggested... but I seemed to follow the bolts and not using available holds is a bit contrived.
None the less it is a fun climb. You should not be intimidated by the rating... I probably wouldn't have tried it if I knew it was a 10a.
|By William Thiry|
From: Lakewood, CO
Mar 7, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
I started climbing the right side of the buttress but backed off because the left side looked better - which it was. The left side is probably easier, but it's a more logical line to the 2nd bolt, and a better line in my opinion. The 1st bolt should be placed 2 feet higher to be of any use if one chooses to stay right.