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The Red Wall
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Starting Blocks S 

Starting Blocks 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: The Head Crew, 1998?
Page Views: 2,411
Submitted By: richard magill on Dec 17, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Luke Childers sending "Starting Blocks."
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Description 

This is an extraordinarily good line that moves up overhanging stone on big slopers. Several big moves take you over a roof, where the grade eases off, but there is more 5.11 above to keep you engaged.

This route is probably a bit stiff for 12a. Welcome to the Red Wall.


Protection 

7 bolts.



Photos of Starting Blocks Slideshow Add Photo
Good shade for late day starts.  I hope this picture helps someone decide if the long hike is worth it.
Good shade for late day starts. I hope this pictu...
Comments on Starting Blocks Add Comment
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By richard magill
Dec 17, 2001

I forgot to mention that this is the middle route of the three routes on the lower tier.

By desbien
From: seattle,wa
Oct 21, 2007

Awesome...dude.

By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Jun 14, 2008
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Pumpy.

By Luke Childers
Jul 12, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Did this one today and it was a real treat. I thought the hardest moves were getting past the slopers just above the 1st bolt. What followed proved just as enjoyable. Nothing like steep low textured jugs to win you over. Cool line. I wish it was about 30 feet taller!!

By Chad M
From: Castle Rock, CO
May 24, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Great route! Tricky off the ground and a great crux sequence.

By slim
Administrator
Jun 24, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This is a pretty wild route. I didn't enjoy it as much as others (not my typical style of route), but I also can recognize that it is a very good route. I don't think I have climbed a blocky/pillowy sort of granite route like this, where the blocks were all completely solid. Very unique!

I didn't have any trouble with the start, but it took me a bit to figure out the last overlap. You have to be agressive here. It took me literally forever to figure out how to clip the bolt here, I must have shook out here for 20 minutes, - but it ends up being the best stance to do so once you figure it out.

A couple quick notes: be careful clipping the 3rd bolt - the hands are pretty good but the feet are quite slick. Also, one thing that would really make this a great route would be to add another bolt at the last bolt and put the anchor there, instead of walking back on the ledge to the current anchor location.