Starter Ice Rack for Colorado?

I thought rock climbing was expensive and then i started ice climbing. I am just now learning to lead and want to start building a solid ice rack.

What does anyone recommend for getting started on a basic rack of screws for leading moderate ice and mixed routes in Colorado. I am thinking multi-pitch in the San Juan and RMNP and single pitch pure ice lines as well.

I realize the rack is highly dependent on the climb and its current condition so this question is very subjective. I am just looking for a general idea of what a good rack of screws might consist of. I already have rock gear so just need ice protection.

Thanks,

Drew

You'll want an assortment of screws. For some climbs you might want some rock gear. For a pure ice, multi pitch, climb, you will need quite a few screws unless you want to run it out.

For something like West Gulley, I usually carry:

2 10 cm
3 13 cm
5 16 cm
1 19 or 22 cm
10 draws, some with shoulder length slings
2 double shoulder length slings for belays
1 V thread tool
cord
knife
couple lockers

2 screws per belay and that only leaves 7 placements on a pitch. You might want more or less depending on how easy or hard the ice might be. Obviously, if there is potential for rock placements, you might not need as many screws.

A lot of CO climbs are short so 10 screws is usually plenty for me on single pitch. Multi pitch you'll want more. I carry mostly 16 and 13. I have a few 19's for belays or the first couple screws if possible. A couple screamers are nice if you're using single ropes. I usually don't bother with them on doubles. 19 or 22 makes a good v-thread, make sure you have tat and a knife and your coat hanger.

Scott covered it pretty well for starting out. Make sure you go with an experienced climber. Screws are easy to place. Learning to evaluate ice conditions is not always easy and climbing efficiently which you need to do on lead takes practice.

If you have to ask that here, you haven't followed an experienced leader on enough pitches to be "getting into leading." Just my $0.02

As for Scott's list, given he lists 2 x 10 cm screws, I'd bring 2 more "real" screws (13-19). 10s are mostly psychological pro and you'll definitely want screamers on them (and don't use them for belays unless you also have 2 real screws in too). OK, yeah, in perfect ice they're probably OK, but ice thin enough to require 10s sometimes isn't perfect.

As Scott (edit: sorry, as "Chris"says) says, for full-length multi-pitch climbs, I'll usually bring 14 or more screws. At least 2 for each belay (assuming good ice) which will still only gives you an average of 1 pro placement every 20 feet on a 60m pitch aka possible 40 foot(!) fall.

It ain't cheap, but neither are hospitals or funerals.

Kevin Craig wrote:If you have to ask that here, you haven't followed an experienced leader on enough pitches to be "getting into leading." Just my $0.02

I second this. If you haven't climbed with others and climbed enough to see what they carry, maybe you should rethink the investment. Or just go ahead and do it...but read this first:

Good Lesson

Tits McGee wrote: I second this. If you haven't climbed with others and climbed enough to see what they carry, maybe you should rethink the investment. Or just go ahead and do it...but read this first: Good Lesson

I must have not worded that very well. I been following a few experienced leaders around and they also have different opinions on the topic. The purpose of this post is to get some varied opinions. I am not planning on buying a rack of screws and going to go start sending hard routes. Actually planning on a taking some professional instruction on leading ice before I would consider taking the sharp end myself. I am just interested in what people have to say on the matter.

Thanks for your input.

oh well in that case...

Here's what I usually carry. Ten screws standard Fifteen on longer routes

1 - 22cm
2 - 19cm
4 - 16cm
2 - 13cm
1 - 10cm

On the longer routes I will carry extra 16s and 13s or if I know it will be thin more stubbies. Sorry for the misunderstanding.

Drew McLean wrote: I must have not worded that very well. I been following a few experienced leaders around and they also have different opinions on the topic. The purpose of this post is to get some varied opinions. I am not planning on buying a rack of screws and going to go start sending hard routes. Actually planning on a taking some professional instruction on leading ice before I would consider taking the sharp end myself. I am just interested in what people have to say on the matter. Thanks for your input.

Sounds like a good plan! Good luck, have fun and be safe!

Oh and to be more specific....

Early season, my rack looks something like this:

2 x 10cm
5 x 13cm
5 x 16cm
Might bring a 19 for v-threads

After mid-December-ish (or if going to fat ice venues like Canada or often Cody):

2-4 x 19 cm
4 x 13 cm
6 x 16cm

Normally carry about 6-8 Mammut screamers, 4-ish shoulder length "alpine draws" and 2 double-length slings.

All this assumes mid-length pitches. If I'm expecting full rope length pitches, I'll normally carry about 14 screws or maybe 16 if the climbing is sustained.