There is a huge block maybe 6 foot tall just to the right of Jump Start. Start standing on that block. The first and trickier crux is right off the block as you pull up on sharp crimps and stand up on crappy feet and stab into a hidden hold. Then it launches into a series of crimps, trends a touch right, and right into the second crux which requires a high step and strenuous crimp-pulling as you deadpoint into a jug. Good rest, then it's long and pumpy after that. I think this has to be close to the longest route at the Bluff (I think Looking for Lust has that honor, or at least it used to before the anchors were lowered). Highly recommended.
Bolts. Please use your own gear for top rope. Please bring an extra biner and if the ones up top look bad or don't easily clip or shut, please replace it. It's good karma.
It might be a good idea to stick clip the first bolt, as the first crux is right off the block and if you blow it you could break an ankle in between the block and the wall.
Watch for some loose choss after the second crux. Overall good rock though.
Aiden below The Start of Something Good
start. class of 84', dude! where's your mullet?
Through the crux, now run for the chains!
|By Jonathan Williams|
From: Palo Alto, CA
Mar 5, 2007
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
One of the most fun, sustained routes on the wall. The bottom is the technical crux, but the rest is sustained fun.
From: Platteville, Wi
Oct 30, 2011
Once the holds are identified this is a fun climb. Stays on you until the fourth bolt, and then its a 5.10 jugs.