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Strone Crag
Routes Sorted
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Cost of Business T 
Creaking Plank S 
Firefly T 
Kiss the Sky T 
Le Rap Et Tap T 
Mad Calf Disease T 
Major Tom T 
Minotaur T 
Mr. Bad Luck T 
Nimbus S 
Old Habits Die Hard T 
Orbital Decay S 
Rear-View Mirrors S 
Red Gorilla S 
Space Cadet T 
Starstruck T 
Wealth of Nations T 

Starstruck 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 220'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: J. Steiger, J. Saviers-Steiger, Sept. 27, 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,431
Submitted By: John Steiger on Oct 5, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: The northwest face of Strone Crag. Marked are Sta...

Description 

Starstruck takes a line just below the right shoulder of the northwest face of Strone Crag, taking in some beautiful formations and providing good position.

The first pitch begins by climbing a short slab that is just above a large dead pine tree at the start of the ledge system cutting across the base of Strone Crag’s northwest face (see Location). A cam in a horizontal pod and micronuts in a seam protect the slab adequately (there are good slots; look around). Continue up the crack systems above the slab to a ledge and take a short, sweet left-facing corner to another ledge system. Walk left to a bolted belay. (90 feet).

Pitch two starts by stepping left from the top bolt onto the face. Climb thin cracks until possible to move left into a hanging dihedral. Continue up the dihedral to another ledge and belay from gear in a thin crack or chain anchors a few feet further left. (80 feet).

The last pitch works up the thin crack and over a small roof. Once over the roof, move left around the buttress and face climb to the top and a two-bolt anchor. (50 feet). The last two pitches can be combined with a liberal use of runners.


Location 

Starstruck is on the northwest face of Strone Crag, maybe 200 feet right of the pine tree at the base of Le Rap et Tap and Wealth of Nations, above the unappetizing dark shale bands that prevent direct access to the northwest face. The best approach to reach the route, as well as all the other routes on the north face of Strone (except for Standard Ridge), is from Challenge Buttress. From the road, walk the well-trod Challenge Buttress trail to where it splits, then take the path to the right (the trail left goes to Challenge’s east face). After 40 or so feet, the trail splits again; stay to the right (going left leads to Challenge’s north and west faces). Continue along this trail for maybe 200 feet to its end at a scree and boulder gully, where a steeper trail can be gained that ascends the right-side of the gully and soon reaches the right-end of the ledge system from which all the routes start. The start of the ledge system is usually cairned. Starstruck begins on the obvious slab above the right-end of the ledge system, just above a large, dead pine tree.


Protection 

Standard trad rack supplemented by a set of micronuts (for the first pitch slab). Can make one long rappel from the two-bolt anchor atop the route (two 60 meter ropes), or two rappels stopping at a two-bolt hanging stance halfway down (not recommended). Both get you to the ledge system from which the climb begins. If for some reason you don't want to do the last pitch, you'll need a 70 meter rope to get down from the chain anchors atop the second pitch; and expect a little (easy) down climbing too.



Photos of Starstruck Slideshow Add Photo
The second rappel anchors as of 7-14-13. located a bit east of this route.
BETA PHOTO: The second rappel anchors as of 7-14-13. located a...
Janie on the first pitch during the FA.
BETA PHOTO: Janie on the first pitch during the FA.
To the top.
To the top.
Second pitch.
Second pitch.
view from above
view from above
Comments on Starstruck Add Comment
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By Shaun Greene
From: www.UtahShaun.com
Jun 23, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Excellent route up great rock. Fun moves and cleaning up nicely. Bring those micro cams for the beginning of the second pitch...Dont be dissuaded by the rotten looking begining of this climb.

By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 10, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Really nice route - great job finding this. Much better than Wealth of Nations on the same crag. The hanging belay to rap with one rope is not a big deal and way less hassle than bringing a second rope.

By BackAtItAgain
Aug 4, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This should be included in everyone's BCC moderate list. Great climb in an uncrowded locale. 1 60 m rope works fine for getting off. The slings at the middle rappel station could be replaced, the bolts are good. Second pitch is money!

By rking101
From: Evanston, WY
Aug 28, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Good climb. Wimped out on leading 2nd pitch but did 3rd just started trad tho.. I didnt see any anchors at the top of pitch 3 looked all over so we seen some old webbing on the left there is a trail to the right down a chokestone gullly. Took the scramble down to the big pine and Rapped down to shelf and walk to Rapplers left and you should see pitch 1 anchors then rap again.

Fun climb 2nd pitch makes the climb

By John Steiger
Aug 28, 2012

Hey rking—Glad you liked the route. The anchors on top of the third pitch are two Metolius rap hangers (no chains--the hangers are made to be threaded), tucked somewhat under a slight overhang, just back from the edge of the wall. Several routes end here, like Cost of Business and Old Habits Die Hard, so next time, eh?

By rking101
From: Evanston, WY
Aug 29, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Good to know for next time. From the looks of the webbing up top and the scramble down the little gully we werent the only ones. Thanks for info on anchors will find them next time.
Great climb once again

By Erik R Johnson
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 17, 2013

The route was OK. It can definitely be done in 2 pitches. We had difficulty finding the anchors at the top as well, but they are there. Just look for the bolt line of "Mad Calf Disease" to the left as you are topping out. The anchors are on a little shelf above the last bolt of Mad Calf Disease. The 2 raps to the ground were easy peasy (Oh, and the second pitch of Mad Calf Disease is outstanding).

By thehackattacks
From: Park City, UT
Oct 29, 2013

I made a mistake on this one! On the slab at the beginning of the second pitch I didn't traverse left enough at the right time to reach the hanging dihedral. I wound up above and right of it facing a very risky, thin downward move that could have easily resulted in a 25-30 ft lead fall. So I took the higher road and sadly climbed right up broken, easier terrain all the way to the top of the formation- then my wife and I did a rugged walk-off down the back. BUT IT WAS STILL FUN AND WHAT WE DID DO WAS A GREAT ROUTE!!! Hoping to get back before the end of the season to do it proper.

By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 1, 2014

Just a couple 5.8 moves to keep you on your toes. Good quality climbing though throughout. Climb protects pretty well. Has a bit of choss here and there, but it's all solid in the right places. Third pitch seemed really runout above the short crux you crank through to get on the arete. Easy climbing, fortunately.

Rap bolts on the top of the third pitch were placed in a heinous location for belaying someone up. Makes for a nice pull while you're hanging off the cord down below though.