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This climb is on the West Face of The Sorcerer (facing out towards the Magician). It starts just downhill from Sleight of Hand. Traverse out right on a large flake (exposure right from the get go!). Lieback and jam up some easy flakes angling up and left towards a roof. (optional belay under the roof)
Pull directly over the roof on some juggy flakes (5.9) and then climb up an easy slab to a bolt (5.5 R). From the bolt climb up and left to a second bolt. A couple more moves of 5.8/5.9 friction gain the more featured rock above. Take the low angle jugs and knobs to the top of the massive flake (5.5 R). Step across the gap between the flake and the main wall and belay on this ledge. The anchor takes small TCU's. Scramble over the top of the Sorcerer to the other side where the rap anchor is.
I used a 70 meter rope to do this in one pitch although it may also be possible with a 60M. In any case, be sure to extend any gear you place under the roof.
The quickest way to approach the route is by scrambling to the top of the Charlatan and rapping down to the notch with 2 ropes via the Spooky anchors. From here you can scramble (4th class downclimb) to the start of the climb or set up another rappel with gear or by slinging a large pine. This temporary anchor can be retrieved after you finish the climb and rap back down to the notch.
Gear to 3"
|By Adam Kimmerly|
Aug 30, 2010
Nothing amazing about this one. I only recall one bolt on the flake - a 1/4" buttonhead in relatively good shape - and a big runout above it to the finish. Did I miss a second bolt, or is there just one?
From: Mojave, CA
Jul 16, 2012
There is one bolt on the face as mentioned above. It is a 1/4" buttonhead and the runout is a solid 25' to the top with one "hard" move after it.
This route feels like an alpine climb. The line is not as clean as most of its neighbors, but it's a great warmup. If you're solid you can climb all the way to the summit in one pitch with a 70m rope.