Starr Mountain Rock Climbing
A good stance gives Denmark an opportunity to cons...
Off the beaten track and boasting only a small number of routes, Starr Mountain is not as popular or well-known as crags like T-Wall. Of course, this also means it's almost never crowded, and the rock quality and some stellar routes like Lucky Strikes
make it worth a visit. And it's south-facing, which is good for winter climbing.
Route development began at Starr Mountain in 1978 with Atlanta climber Bob Ordner. Most of the established trad lines were put up over the next few years by Ordner, Shannon Stegg, Curtis Glass and others. Though it's primarily a trad area, there has been some sport development in recent years on a lower cliffline; this is not well-documented.
From Atlanta, take I-75 north to Hwy. 411 east (exit 293). Continue on 411 into Tennessee and through the town of Benton; a few miles past Benton, you'll cross the Hiwassee River. Continue almost a half mile further and turn right on Spring Creek Road (watch for signs for the Gee Creek Wilderness Area). After about 2.3 miles, park in a pulloff on the left near a culvert pipe next to railroad tracks. Hike across the tracks and find the uphill trail. Continue up the trail to a waterfall, then bear right and continue to the cliffline.
Climbing Season For the All Locations area.
Weather station 10.9 miles from here
8 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Starr Mountain
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Starr Mountain
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Starr Mountain:
Buck Nasty 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For Starr Mountain
Big Men, Small Airplanes 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b TN
: Starr Mountain
Good protection takes some of the scare out of this roofy climb.Starting in a left-facing corner, climb the corner hand/finger crack to a spacious ledge (see variation below). Continue up from the ledge to the big roof and follow another hand crack out to its end, then up the face to the top....[more] Browse More Classics in TN
By J Hollada
From: Atlanta, GA
Mar 21, 2016
Watch out for falling rock, debris and large helpings of stupidity. Many locals hike to the top to take in the view and set up questionable anchors for top ropes and sport rapelling. Luckily many routes are protected from the redneck hailstorm by roofs so leading the classics can be done relatively safely.
Definitely worth a trip but best attempted if you can sneak out on a weekday to avoid the crowds.