Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Stargazer
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Clean Corner T 
Dead Ernest T 
Space Boy Elroy S 
Stargazer T 

Stargazer 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: 
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 1,601
Submitted By: Kevin Sainio on Apr 28, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Stargazer.

Description 

A weird start leads to a small roof and the finger crack. Follow this till it widens (#3 and #4 Camalot) and thins again. Rappel the route off of a bolt and a tree (addendum: now 2 bolts). Also, this goes at C1+.

Location 

This is the finger crack just left of a clean corner.

Protection 

Aid rack- 1 set of nuts, double set of cams, many finger-sized pieces, and one #3 and #4 Camalot.
Free rack- less than above.
Bolt and tree anchor (addendum: now 2 bolts).


Photos of Stargazer Slideshow Add Photo
Kevin aiding Stargazer. A great practice aid climb...
Kevin aiding Stargazer. A great practice aid climb...

Comments on Stargazer Add Comment
Show which comments
By Shaun Reed
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 14, 2008

Unbelievable line! Takes great gear, lots of small aliens for the crux section. It does not see the traffic it deserves, so go get on it!
By Skyeler Congdon
From: his van
Aug 30, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Visiting strong climbers beware:

More than one person has fallen off this route, decked, and broken their back. (Hey, if I had to know this before my redpoint than so do all of you!!)

There is a spot below the crux where you can place two bomber pieces, equalize them, and get a good shake before tackling the crux. I would recommend this. There is good, solid pro throughout the whole climb, but take care to place it well...
By eDixon
From: Durango, Colorado
Jun 7, 2011

Added a second bolt to the anchor a few years back. No need to use the little tree.
By Ben Griffin
From: Durango, CO
Mar 31, 2013
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

There really isn't a reason for anyone to break their back on this route. I wouldn't climb on it if it was wet, and placing gear on this route is not a problem. Bring at least one purple Metolius size, doubles in all finger sizes starting at blue Metolius to green Camalots. Other helpful sizes are a single set of red cams to #3 size cams. I'm going up there soon to remove all the scrub oak which will greatly improve the belay area.

P.S. This crack eats stoppers pretty easily. The bottom of the crack is softer rock, but it takes really good gear and the crux of the route is on really good rock. This is a short and stout pitch.