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Cadillac Crag
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Highway Of Ra T 
Ichiban Arete T 
Land of Ra T,S 
Let it Vee T 
Midnight Trundler T,TR 
Moonlight Drive T 
Shallow Dihedral T,TR 
Stargate T 
Trail of Tears S 
Twistoflex T 
Untitled, The S 
V3 T 
You're Ugly and Your Mother Dresses You Funny T 

Stargate 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Unknown
Fixed Hardware: 7 Lead Bolts [details]
Page Views: 973
Submitted By: David A. Turner on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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At the upper crux at the 5th bolt. After that it's...
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is perhaps the best of the 5.11 face climbs on Cadillac. This climb can be easily done in one 200 foot pitch.

Located on the right face of fin 3. Climb the first, and best, pitch of Auburn Lane (10d). Clip the bolts on the face to left of the optional belay cove and confront the crux. More bolt protected, consistently good face climbing takes you towards the top, where a gear starts to be required again.

Rossiter's guide rates this as 5.11c, but there is no section harder than 11b.


Protection 

Wires and cams to 4"; quickdraws.



Photos of Stargate Slideshow Add Photo
Chuck's hands are on the ramp, and his knees are at the 4th bolt. To get to the 5th bolt, you can either hand traverse left along the ramp and then stand or stand up and right from  where Chuck is and then undercling left.
Chuck's hands are on the ramp, and his knees are a...
Working through the crux section on this stellar face climb. Photo by Holden Harris.
Working through the crux section on this stellar f...
At the flake after the crux near the 3rd bolt. The climbers on the left are at the hanging belay on Moonlight Drive.
At the flake after the crux near the 3rd bolt. The...
Moving left from the first bolt. I think Chuck was too low, since he got pretty far left of the first bolt and then had to lean far right to clip the second bolt. <br /> <br />The route angles left from chuck to a flake that's visible below the ceiling. Then over the ceiling on its right side. Left again aiming for the cracks at the top left of the photo (joining Moonlight Drive).You can escape right at several points on the upper half to finish left of the tree at the top center of the photo.
Moving left from the first bolt. I think Chuck was...
Underclinging left along the ramp. This is a little insecure, and the bolt is several feet below your feet. It looks like you could get a small brass nut by Chuck's right shoulder.
Underclinging left along the ramp. This is a littl...
Comments on Stargate Add Comment
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 28, 2003
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Actually, Rossiter's latest Eldo book rates this 5.11d. I'd have to agree that it is easier- and perhaps easier still because yesterday I snapped off the sharp part of the crux hold and it got better. I tend to sacrifice a little strength for security and lean back hard to make my feet stick better- I leaned back on the diagonal crimp and 'pop' now it's a little different. My partner, who normally has to grovel a bit on climbs harder than 5.11b came up it clean without too much struggle, despite hot/humid conditions.

Building a good anchor up top while keeping the rope off of sharp edges is a little problematic, build it to avoid cutting your rope in the event of a fall.

Neat route. P1 breaks charicter from P2, but both are fun.

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 9, 2003
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Another of many mismatches between Rossiter's rating in the text and what it says on the topo. The text says 11d, but the topo shows an 11b crux down low, and an 11a crux higher. Needed a magnifying glass to read the notations on the topo.

By mike c
From: nederland
Nov 29, 2011

Great climb...did it as one pitch, and it was smooth. Fair as 11b in Eldo...if you relax. I had a harder time with the moves up higher. I found the upper section slightly commiting (5th to 6th) but exciting.

By Mr. Stevens
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 30, 2013

I thought this route was fantastic! I enjoyed it more than Land of Ra. The moves past the first 3 bolts are super thin, technical, and very bouldery. Definitely get on it if you're in the area!