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|Type: ||Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III|
|Consensus: ||5.11- [details]|
|FA: ||Ed Webster and Chester Dreiman, 1982|
|Season: ||Sun on white calcite!|
|Submitted By: ||Ken Trout on Apr 13, 2009|
BETA PHOTO: Star Dust Cowboy is "F".
This is an unfinished an...
This great adventure climbs to the summit via a bolt ladder. .
Use either the North Chimney approach or the first 25 foot pitch of Kor-Ingalls to get to the big ledge.
Pitch one is steep and clean all the way, 5.11-. The crux requires Indian Creek style thin hands endurance. It ends with steep 5.9 hands to Ed's first bolt. From there climb up left to the big ledge below pitch two of Arrowhead Left. This bolt helps protect the second. If your skipping the bolt ladder finish, then Kor-Ingall's lowest anchor is the best option back to the trail with a single 70m rope.
Pitch two begins with traversing back right to the pitch one bolt and then moving up a 5.7 arete onto the white face. A fragile 5.10 lieback is done and some loose blocks may need passing before the belay ledge is reached.
Pitch three is the bolt ladder.
Pitch four traverses right into the top of the North Chimney and finishes via Kor-Ingalls. Careful climbing and communication may be needed to keep climbers in the North Chimney safe from loose stuff. There are no anchors on the sub-summit, just dangerously loose rocks. Going to the sub-summit is not part of the route.
See Photo of Sketch.
Bring an almost-Indian Creek rack for 25 meters of steep variable hand jams. I have not done the bolt ladder (yet), but bring aiders because the FA party could no-doubt stretch bolts beyond the limits of french-free.