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The Bookmark
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37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel, The T 
Backflip T 
Bellyflop T,S 
Between The Sheets T 
Bookmark OW T 
Cave Route T 
Coleman's Complex T 
Crack of No Return T 
Dead in Bed T 
East Side T 
Fall Out T 
Fantasy Ridge T 
Goose, The T,S 
Inside Straight T 
Joy and Tribulation T 
Klingon (with direct start) T 
Manhole Cover T 
Marginal Line T 
Original Fantasy Ridge T 
Penis Chimney T 
Plan A T 
Rhythm Method T 
Romulan Territory T 
Screamin' Eagles S 
Seams Like A Dream T 
Sojourn T 
Son of a Pitch T 
Star Trek T 
Time Machine T 
Twiggy's Crack T 
Virgin Spring T 
Wigglin' Fingies T 
Unsorted Routes:

Star Trek 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a X

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 450'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: No
Page Views: 1,300
Submitted By: XOG on Jun 14, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Description 

This is one of the prominent natural lines (i.e. not contrived) on the Bookmark, lying between Romulan Territority on the left and Backflip on the right. The climb really starts on Library Ledge, sharing the belay with Backflip. Technically a 5.7 pitch 30' left of Backflip (recognizable by an old bolt 30' up) is the start, but we got to Library Ledge via Marginal Line (9+), which looked nicer to us than the traditional way.

The 2nd pitch is what makes the climb great. It is however very runout 5.6 at the beginning, climbing up on the face just to the left of the Backflip dihedral on knobs and crystals. The leader can place a piece above the belay by climbing up the Backflip dihedral about 15' and setting a nut with a *very* long sling, and then downclimbing back to the belay before beginning the lead for real. This can at least protect against a long fall directly onto the belay, as you lead over 40' off the belay on completely crackless but clean rock.

Above the runout section is a beautiful section of 10a in a finger size crack dihedral thing (typical Lumpy fare with the crack hard to reach at times and many lieback moves). The guidebook gives this the 10a rating, but we both felt it was more like 5.9. In any case this is certainly no Gollum's Arch!

Belay just after the 10a section in an alcove just below a steepening crack. The first section of the next pitch is awkward 5.7 with good jams. Above this there is some fun easier crack climbing, followed by some vegetated V-shaped crack climbing reminescent of George's Tree. I didn't enjoy this section very much, but I didn't particularly care for George's Tree either. Out to the right after a stretch of this you can cross over to easy climbing on fun chickenheads to avoid the last section of this crack.

Above this there is one fun move moving right at the end of the cracks and then immediately foot traversing left above an overhang, with one kind of fun move getting established above the overhang (maybe 5.7+ or so).

Then easy climbing finishes the route.

Protection 

Protection is mostly straightforward ranging from yellow alien to 3 camalot, with plenty of mid-size stopper placements. However, there is a serious runout section on 5.6 at the beginning of p. 2. This gets 'R' in the guidebook, but since it's over 40' directly off of Library Ledge with absolutely no protection possibilities, 'vs' is more accurate.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 23, 2010
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 18, 2003

Star Trek definitely does not deserve a 'VS' rating. "VS' should be reserved for R/X routes where the dangerous section is of nearly the same difficulty as the crux. I'm not sure I'd even give this route an 'S' rating for a competent 5.9 leader.
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Jun 18, 2003

Maybe 5.10a(6vs) or 5.10a(6s) would be a better way to describe this route. A 40 foot ledge fall feels like R/X to me. Of course, most of the routes in the Flatirons would get the "vs" rating, if that was the case.
By XOG
Jun 20, 2003

Dear Anonymous Coward (since you think this climb is not even 'S' perhaps you might also be brave enough to not hide behind anonymity) - I was going by the (slightly lame, but it's the only one I've seen ) definition that 'S' means the leader would likely be hurt significantly in a fall and 'VS' means the leader would likely be killed in a fall. You could fall 80' straight onto the belay, which I'd call VS. I've never heard anything about a requirement that the difficulty on the runout needs to be close (whatever that means) to the grade of the climb, and there are examples of climbs that have the VS rating for pitches much easier than the crux - XM with the initial 5.7 VS pitch being a good one of these. Also, the fact that it is straight off of the belay is significant to me, for reasons that I won't go into. I probably would have still put 'S' instead of 'VS' if it weren't for that. Personally, I think the grading system for seriousness could be a bit finer tuned and less uninformative, maybe more like what the English have, but I digress. I agree that many Flatiron climbs that have no seriousness rating are actually S or VS but hey, it's the Flatirons - if you don't know what I mean I couldn't possibly explain it to you.
By david goldstein
Jun 20, 2003

Greg, I'm w/ you. I've lead the first pitch of Star Trek twice. The first time was as a direct start to Romulan Territory (10b, decent pro) which I lead the remainder of. The second time was immediately after leading Climb of the Ancient Mariner (very runout 5.9) and immediately before leading Living Dead (well protected 11b). On all those other climbs, I felt solid, but both times on ST, I was gripped. The climbing on ST may be fairly easy, but it is insecure and a fall will at best probably result in a long stay in the hospital. Those who say this pitch doesn't deserve an S are guilty of pointless sandbagging -- setting others up for a terrifying and possibly dangerous experience.

Note: it is possible to cinch a nubin with a small wire midway up ST P1, offering some hope that the rope will stop you before the ledge if the wind blows you off your smears.
By XOG
Jul 7, 2003

Bob,The point I was trying to make was that I was trying to follow the only definition I've seen for s or vs as truthfully as I could. If you think the defn should include something like not to take the runouts into account if the runout sections are a lot easier than the crux, fine, but I'd like to see it defined better. Also, like David was saying, the 5.6 seems kind of hard on this pitch (I thought this too), and like I said in my description, the 5.10- seems kind of easy, more like 5.9, so I also think that the runout climbing is in fact not as far off in difficulty from the crux as might at first appear to be the case. Also, I know for sure from what's happened to 4 friends of mine that the fact that it is right off the belay should be taken into account - factor 2 falls are nothing to mess with. Therefore: Although I respect your comments, I stick with giving this the vs.Greg
By Errett Allen
Oct 20, 2003

Gear Alert
Did this route recently with the original first pitch. The first pitch has an old and extremely manky bolt -- quarter inch screw top rawl split shank with a very rusty Leeper hanger. Also looks like it took falls which bent the bolt head. This bolt was intended to protect a 25 foot section of offwidth crack above it. Today with modern wide cams, a leader could get adequate protection on this section which makes the bolt obsolete. Also on the upper half of this wide crack there is an inside crack in which you can make blind placements of 1 to 2 inch cams. There's been a good deal of old bolt replacement at Lumpy recently in which I have been involved. In this case I believe the bolt should be removed but NOT replaced. So I thought I would propose this here, just to see how much whining and screaming I might expect if I went ahead and did it.
By paco
Oct 20, 2003

i for one agree with the removal and the NON-replacement of this bolt. its an eye sore and not needed in these modern days of fancy cams.
By Ken Heiser
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 26, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I led the runout pitch on this route a couple of weeks ago.My understanding from reading stuff like the old New Hampshire, Gunks, or Eldo guidesbooks of the s or vs of pg or X system is that if you were to fall and die it would be vs or x, if you are risking serious injury then it is s or pg.This system did not take into account the climbers ability or what the difference in grade from the runout to the crux it simply looked at the facts for taking a fall.The facts for me on this route were:Before getting good gear I was probably 50 feet off the ledge with no gear that was reliable. Fact: A fall from this point would probably be career or life ending. Regardless of grades or ability these were the facts that I encountered.So for me this was s or probably vs.For example what if I can climb 11 and this is only 6 and a huge gust of wind comes along and blows me off the rock. Does my ability to free solo this have anything to do with the fact that I am still dead?

I super enjoyed the route too.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Aug 21, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

If you remove that old bolt on P1, leaders should bring a large cam (#5 camalot, at least) probably to use. #4 camalot definitely was way too small. Although the climbing is not excessively difficult, a fall at the top of that OW section without the bolt & without a OW piece would risk a groundfall. Most folks don't drag a #5 camalot or larger piece up to the Book area. :)
By Joseffa Meir
Jul 5, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fun route! I would agree the runout on P2 is vs, but the climbing above is quite fun.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jul 9, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

IMHO, the P2 stretch is 6 s/vs (i.e. a near factor 2, 50 ft fall to a ledge then another 50 ft if you botch it) with a near 50ft runout above a ledge with a flake looped with a sling. That upper knob probably wouldn't hold a big fall with a wire looped over it, IMHO. I believe the 10a rating is the straight-up version called Klingon. To keep it 9, kick out R to the next dihedral after the lieback.
By Ross
From: Pinewood Springs
Aug 23, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X

Suggestion: Climb the left-facing corner, wide crack to its small roof, then over and up a crack to the ledge, called Inside Straight (IS) 9+, quality pitch. A #4.5 Camalot just does it for first moves, save a #3 or 4 for crack moves below small roof.

Like others have said near the start of Star Trek, ~7m up you can sling a knob that might hold a fall that I felt pretty good about it. If your rope is long enough or you make your belayer climb some, you can continue all the way to the top over the small roof on the right, about 75m.

It's rare, but the hard layback crack climbing looks worse than it really is, definitely almost a grade easier than IS.
--Ross