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Radiant Dome
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Star Crossed T 

Star Crossed 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: FKA Simon Hatfield, Garrett Helm, 5/11
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, Fall
Page Views: 616
Submitted By: Simon Hatfield on May 29, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Star Crossed topo

Description 

1) 5.8, 110ft.
Begins in a right facing corner in a slightly wide, undulating crack. Follow the crack up the corner with excellent stances for pro, takes passive well. Follow the crack through the roof as it passes a scary, grainy, loose block (5.8). Belay once past the roof.

2) 5.7, 160ft.

Follow the beautiful, juggy, crack in a wide corner as it steepens and turns from OW, to fists (5.7) to hands. Belay at a plush, sandy ledge where the two cracks on this face form an X.

3) 5.8, 120ft.
Stay right (switching cracks), and follow a splitter fingercrack in a left facing corner as it approaches a roof. Turn the roof on sinker hand jams (5.8) and follow the glorious juggy handcrack towards the top. Hand traverse when the crack abruptly jogs left, and belay off of a large live oak.


Location 

The dark granite of the northwest face of Radiant dome has two distinct cracks that make an X. Star Crossed follows the one that begins climbers right, and switches into the one that finishes climbers right, after the X

From the granite tongue of the north buttress of Radiant Dome, walk 200 yards climbers right around the NW edge of the formation. The climb is easiest to find by visually following the upper crack down to the ground.

Descent) 30 min, 3rd class
Difficult to explain, but pretty intuitive if you're there. Hike southwest along a long, sandy ledge, with a wall to your left, gaining about 100ft of elevation. Continue to the southwest end of the formation, with occasional 3rd class chasm jumps or grainy downclimbs. Keep an eye open for a low angle slab on your right that will take you back down to the dirt. Once on the ground, hike NE towards your packs. The easiest path is right along the edge of the formation.


Protection 

Gear to 4". All belays are gear or trees.
For p2, We got away with doubles to #2, and 1x#3, our largest cam. Stronger hikers should bring doubles to #3 and 1x#4.



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By Simon Hatfield
From: Oakland, CA
May 29, 2011

Garrett and I climbed this onsight last week after scoping it from the ground and above, and suspecting that it would go (it isn't in the Moser/Vernon guide).

We found no pin scars, no fixed gear, and 1 fragile loose block, all signs pointing to ours being the first ascent. After scouring the internet for trip reports and area topos, and coming up dry, we have listed it as a FKA here on MP.

If you have any information about this climb, or the ones adjacent to it, please contact me. I'd love to learn more about the area.