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Turd Boulder aka Leaning Boulder
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Genital Grinder? Ground Control? 
Leaning Overhang 
Stanturd Route 

Stanturd Route 

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Consensus:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: [Tom Gage] (?)
Page Views: 1,560
Submitted By: XOG on Jun 12, 2005

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Johnny Hork, ready to start.

Description 

Start low and left with hands matched on an undercling. Cross left onto a classic Sanitas shear-edge and throw out right to an edge with a thumb-catch. Swing legs out right and heel hook, then throw straight up to a good knob. Pull in with the heel and crimp hard on a tiny edge for the right hand, then make a committing move (even though only 2 feet off the ground there is a rock just behind your back that you don't want to pop off backwards onto) that involves moving the left hand off the knob to the right onto an edge (but not crossing, i.e. still to the left of the right hand by a foot or so). Now reach far right to a positive edge or incut below the lip, cross with the left onto a scooped out pocket (still with the rock just behind your back, but with less difficult climbing now - nevertheless stay off the bigger holds up on the lip to make this more fun), go right into a crack with a finger lock at the bottom for the right hand. Cross left up high onto a polished surface and finish on easier but still very fun moves out the underside of the arete, finally moving back left onto the main face for the exit move. This packs a good 13 or so lowball moves and is a fun problem in a secluded setting away from the mainstream Sanitas activity.

Protection 

N/A. Good spot is desirable because of the boulder behind you.


Photos of Stanturd Route Slideshow Add Photo
Johnny Hork sending.
Johnny Hork sending.
Johnny Hork sending.
Johnny Hork sending.
Kicking the turd out of the route.
Kicking the turd out of the route.

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