Stan's Roof 5.10-
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10 [details] |
| FA: | Stan Caldwell |
| Submitted By: | Nick Stayner on Jul 29, 2006 |
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Brian feeling the sting of a Throne sandbag...
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Description Either wedge yourself in the chimney and have some physical fun or pinch the arete to the right. either way, eventually reach a roof with great hand jams and pull it.
Location The route is just left of the Snakes and Ladders face. The obvious roof w/ a thin hand crack.
Protection Up to a #2 camalot. Lots of small stuff for the lower corner. Descend via a tree w/ slings and rap rings.
By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Jul 29, 2006
| I put the route in the database as a .10- because that's how it's listed in the book. Personally, I feel the thing's a scorchin' sandbag! The roof is easy, but the lower dihedral is REALLY physical!! |
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Sep 27, 2006
| Great route, but you better enjoy some good ol' fasion "body english", or you won't be having a good time.... |
By Wavey
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 6, 2007
| scary down low with minimal good pro. physical. good route though. |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 1, 2007
rating: 5.10
| Probably 10b or 10c. The stemming work is not rudimentary. Beware of sandbags. A few small nuts protect some interesting climbing, so not for the trad noobie. Fun route though, and certainly height dependent. |
By bbrock
From: Al
Jun 5, 2007
| This entire rock is just full of sandbags. |
By Courtney Pace
Sep 5, 2010
| Definitely a rewarding climb. the portion below the roof requires a few tricky placements with some not so regular moves. I agree with the "body english" statement, but its a cruise past the roof. |
By lucasbarth
From: tacoma, toyota
Sep 23, 2010
| "Descend via a tree with rap rings"
-Maybe I missed this tree, but I just built an anchor, brought my second up and descended the chains atop groovy crack. |
By RKM
From: Alpine, Utah
Dec 2, 2012
| This was a popular test piece as early as '76. Did it that year with Rick Wyatt - off width master. |
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