Stan's Crack 5.8+
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | Stan Wallace, Spencer Turrentine - 1970s |
| Submitted By: | Danny Inman on May 6, 2007 |
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Stans Crack
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Description This route follows a great handcrack in a left-facing corner for about 65-70 feet to a spacious belay ledge, at which point there is an obvious off-width (direct finish 9+) to the left or easier terrain to the right -- the original route goes right following mellow terrain to the anchors. I found the route to be sustained at the grade with no particular crux. The face holds are plentiful, so the rests come easy as does protection.
Though it's officially a two-pitch route, Stan's Crack can easily be done in one pitch without serious rope drag issues.
Location Continue past RJ gold etc., down a couple of steps-follow the trail for 30 yards or so. The route is a prominent left-facing corner.
Protection Mainly hand-sized cams. A rack from 1" up to 3" will do fine, double up on the 2 - 2.5" pieces to really sew it up. Bolted anchors at the top.
By Jason Price
May 15, 2007
rating: 5.8
| This is a great route! The fact that it has 2 pitches (although the 2nd is quite short) makes for a unique experience at Sunset. The exit up the face left of the off-width is also a great finish at about 10a. The gear (sm. to med. wires/cams) is not obvious from the belay, but it opens up as you go. Fantastic... |
By ryan baxter
Jul 22, 2008
| Fun Sustained Route. If using the Ring anchors above the 5.11 to the right, it seemed best to belay from above. we did not, however and a well placed directional limited rope drag. still in hind site would have belayed my partner form above. |
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Jul 26, 2008
rating: 5.9+
| Great climb, but the rating is a sandbag as far as I'm concerned. Pretty much never lets up til you're near the top of the first pitch. |
By david draper
Sep 25, 2008
| Probably the best 8 at sunset with perfect cadillac smooth jamming and gear a go-go. I think you could throw cams at the route and they would be bomber! There are anchors off to the right at two thirds height, but if you have a 3.5 and or a 4 BD then continue straight up the crack for the more natural line. Large hands will keep the grade moderate, but my small handed wife stems it at about 9+ |
By cshuey77
From: Asheville, NC
May 27, 2010
rating: 5.8
| Tons of handjams, steming, and gear. Great router for 5.8 leader. |
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