Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Sunset North
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Sense of Adventure 
Alpha Omega 
Arena, The 
Banshee 
Beginner's Route 
Bill's Route 
Broemel's Route 
Broken Arrow 
Bubble Bath 
Copperhead 
Cornerstone 
Crazy Eights 
Fault Line 
Flagstone 
Flute Loops 
Friday the Thirteenth 
Ghost Dancers 
Grand Cave, The 
Heavy Hands 
Horribilus Maximus 
Jams and Shams 
Jefferson Airplane 
Jennifer's World 
Lefthand Crack 
Lichen to Lose It 
Mineral Fright 
More Fun with Dick and Jane 
One-Ten 
Prisoners of Zenda 
Prow, The 
R.J. Gold 
Righthand Crack 
Rusty's Crack 
S'More 
Scare Voyager 
Scream Wall 
Scream Wall Direct 
Slip Stream 
Spring Break 
Stan's Crack 
Stan's Crack Direct Finish 
Sticht in Time 
Sunset Boulevard 
Terrier in Trouble 
Test Tube 
Thin Pockets 
Toothpick 
Total Eclipse 
Water in Motion 
Unsorted Routes:

Stan's Crack 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Stan Wallace, Spencer Turrentine - 1970s
Page Views: 2,952
Submitted By: Danny Inman on May 6, 2007
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Stans Crack

Description 

This route follows a great handcrack in a left-facing corner for about 65-70 feet to a spacious belay ledge, at which point there is an obvious off-width (direct finish 9+) to the left or easier terrain to the right -- the original route goes right following mellow terrain to the anchors. I found the route to be sustained at the grade with no particular crux. The face holds are plentiful, so the rests come easy as does protection.

Though it's officially a two-pitch route, Stan's Crack can easily be done in one pitch without serious rope drag issues.


Location 

Continue past RJ gold etc., down a couple of steps-follow the trail for 30 yards or so. The route is a prominent left-facing corner.


Protection 

Mainly hand-sized cams. A rack from 1" up to 3" will do fine, double up on the 2 - 2.5" pieces to really sew it up. Bolted anchors at the top.



Photos of Stan's Crack Slideshow Add Photo
About 15 feet up.
About 15 feet up.
Comments on Stan's Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jason Price
May 15, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

This is a great route! The fact that it has 2 pitches (although the 2nd is quite short) makes for a unique experience at Sunset. The exit up the face left of the off-width is also a great finish at about 10a. The gear (sm. to med. wires/cams) is not obvious from the belay, but it opens up as you go. Fantastic...

By ryan baxter
Jul 22, 2008

Fun Sustained Route. If using the Ring anchors above the 5.11 to the right, it seemed best to belay from above. we did not, however and a well placed directional limited rope drag. still in hind site would have belayed my partner form above.

By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Jul 26, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Great climb, but the rating is a sandbag as far as I'm concerned. Pretty much never lets up til you're near the top of the first pitch.

By Stone Brew
From: Chattanooga, TN
Sep 25, 2008

Probably the best 8 at sunset with perfect cadillac smooth jamming and gear a go-go. I think you could throw cams at the route and they would be bomber! There are anchors off to the right at two thirds height, but if you have a 3.5 and or a 4 BD then continue straight up the crack for the more natural line. Large hands will keep the grade moderate, but my small handed wife stems it at about 9+

By cshuey77
From: Asheviile,nc
May 27, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Tons of handjams, steming, and gear. Great router for 5.8 leader.