Stan's Crack Direct follows the off-width near the top of Stan's Crack proper. This variation is highly recommended. Climb Stan's Crack to the base of the offwidth/flake approximately 30 feet below the top, jam and stem your way to the bolted anchors.
See Stan's Crack.
Small wires protect the moves gaining the crack, 3, 3.5, and 4" cams protect the crack.
From: Decatur, GA
Jul 26, 2008
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Strenuous; the jams are good but feet aren't. Felt more 10-ish to me, but that's probably in keeping with the sandbagged nature of the rest of Stan's.
|By Stone Brew|
From: Chattanooga, TN
Sep 24, 2008
Stans is probably the best 5.8 crack at sunset, it has gear a go-go and cadillac smooth hand jams wherever you want them. I think you could throw a cam at the crack and it would be bomber! A bolted anchor is off to the right at about two thirds height, but a more fun and natural line takes you straight up the steep crack. A 3.5 or a 4 old BD is useful here. If you have big hands the grade stays at 8plus, but my small hands wife stems her way out and gives it a 9. A must do!